The weirdest thing happened to me this weekend. I had traced off the Burda blouse #114 from January 2016 and was ready to toile. In the stash, lurked a length of red and white viscose crepe, kindly swapped by Del almost 2 years ago. I never could think of what to use it for, but I thought this time, try for a wearable toile. I had already checked width measurements etc, so was sure the pattern would be 75% fine, I just needed to know what changes to make to make the pattern 100%.
I cut the straight 44, version A length. The pattern makes up easily enough, there’s nothing complicated in the instructions. I opted not to have the buttonhole in the yoke to allow the drawstrings out, instead I pinned the cord in place until I was ready to bind the neckline. By then I knew how much pulling up I wanted. I’m not sure I really want dangly bits on the final blouse either, to be honest. There’s an awful lot of gathering on the lower sleeve, it’s a good idea to mark the half and quarter and then line that up with the half and quarter on the bias “cuff”. That way you’ll get equal distribution of the fullness.
The finishing touch of adding a loop and buttonhole to the neck binding has been left off, I wanted to see what it would look like without that, and how much the front hangs open! I think I’m more likely to wear it this way than buttoned up anyway, so I’ll raise the point for the slit by about 3-4cm. I like my bras, but I don’t really want to be showing them off to all and sundry when I lean forward!
So, now that the toile is done I know the width is perfect, I do need length in the front though. The front bust depth needs about 3cm added, so I’ll do that on the pattern pieces, adding a dart in the side to control the extra length. I also think it’s a little short for all purposes. While I’m wearing the blouse with my jeans (high waisted Birkin Flares) it’s fine, but with a pair of Morgans or any trouser that sits lower than the natural waist, I’ll be showing off bits no-one needs to see! So the overall length needs to increase by about 5cm to make me happy and comfortable. Apart from that, it’s all good!!
And the weird thing that happened? I’m wearing a red blouse, and I love it!!! Now to make some more versions of this pattern, I’m thinking navy viscose for sure, and I might even finally cut my spotty silk. That’s been hiding in the stash for at least 10 years, only comes out to be patted now and then!