Sunflower Terra Pants

I’ve had this post in drafts since the end of April, not quite sure of whether or not to post it.  I’m not raving about this pattern – but I think it’s just because it doesn’t suit me the way I was wanting it to.  It’s a case of great pattern – but on someone else!  Anyway, here it is, with all my doubts.

My first foray into using Pattern Fantastique patterns – I’ve liked the asthetic of this company for a while, but only bought some patterns this year!  I jumped for the Terra Pants and Phen Shirt just after the Phen was released – I love how they look together!  When I was finally inspired to make something for me again, I thought I’d start with the pants.  I also thought these would be a good idea for Daughter No2, I’m sure she could carry these off with ease!  She’s already given the nod to the shirt.

First attempt at photos, back in March

Going by the measurement chart, I traced the 12 and 14, and toiled the 14 with no adjustments.  I used some cream curtain lining, thinking the pattern needed a fabric with body to hold the shape and the pleat.  I’m not sure whether it was the colour or the body of the lining, but I suddenly wasn’t quite so sure I liked the pants when I was finished with the toile!  Feeling a little blah, I put them in the naughty corner and faffed around with other things.

Terra Pants from Pattern Fantastique

But I couldn’t get them out of my head – there must be a way to make them work – I still really liked how they looked on other people.  Putting them on again, I thought that perhaps I could go down a size on the legs, that would narrow them on each side seam by about a centimetre.  I also made an adjustment to the centre back seam which improved the fit across the bum.  But still not 100% certain.  I really didn’t want to waste fabric on something I might not like afterwards.

Sunflowers on the pocket, a reminder that when I made these, Europe had just gone nuts.

Eventually, it was at a sewing session with a couple of friends that it all came together.  I was faffing with the pattern, reducing the side seams down to the 12, when I thought I’d pu the toile on again and ask their opinions.  To my complete surprise, they all liked the pants!  The colour needed to be looked past, but they all assured me they looked good and just go ahead!  So I took a deep breath and went for it!  My fabric is a very dark lightweight stretch denim that I bought from Truro Fabrics many years ago.

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The pattern is easy to follow and the instructions clear.  The fly zip is inserted in a manner I’ve never used before, but it’s not confusing (just read the instructions carefully!) and results in a good finish.  I just need to reverse the instructions so that the opening is on the other side.  I cannot get used to the zip and button being on the “wrong” side.  Aside from the adjustment in the centre back seam, I made no other changes.  This version has the patch pockets on the back and the turn-ups.

I made them to sit on the waist, but apparently if you size up, you can make them to sit lower on the hip.  That might be an idea for next time, I find they’re a little on the snug side!  Which contrasts massively with the fullness in the leg – which is something I just can’t get over.  They just don’t look right on me.  I think it’s the combination of the balloon legs and the cropped length, round pants…  Possibly in a fabric with even less body, and maybe if I size down in the legs and up in the waist I’d get something I prefer, but I’m not sure I’m willing to waste fabric to find out.  I know the girls would look brilliant in these – but is that just because they’re slim?

I’m keen to hear from someone else who’d make the 12/14/16 size and who is around 1.6m tall – have you made them?  Do you like them on you?  I’m honestly thinking of unpicking these and making something else from the fabric, saving and reusing the pockets – of course!

Asymmetry

I fancied this pattern when I saw it in the Burda magazine, August 2021.  It’s pretty straightforward except for the neckline.  And was what I liked – and was wary of at the same time!  I had a feeling that this would be one of those patterns that made a cool looking garment, until the first time it was washed.  Then it would be a royal pain in the butt to iron and get to sit properly again.  I figured fabric choice was going to be key here.

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So I left it for a while until I found some organic cotton jersey at Croft Mill which was nice and sturdy when it came, has stretch but not masses of drape, had body but wasn’t thick.  I thought this is it, I’ll make that top with this stuff.  I thought about doing a FBA for about 5 minutes after tracing the 44, looked at  all the odd shaped pieces and then decided not to bother…  Lazy.  So there are no alterations on this.

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It wasn’t overly complicated to put together, but the fabric wanted to roll to the right side all the time, which was annoying, and irritating when I needed it to sit still and stay put!  The instructions have you insert the sleeve after the s ides are sewn up, but with jersey tops you usually put the sleeve in on the flat.  The head on this pattern is very high which has lead to some makers getting a nasty poof s tthe top.  I took one look at it and lowered the head height a bit – completely by eye.  It’s better than some look, but really – it’s unneccessary to have a sleeve head like that on a jersey top!

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The asymmetry of the neckline is cool, worked ok when flat.  But my prediction was right – it is a pain in the butt to iron after washing!!  But I love it so much that as soon as it’s back in the wardrobe, it’s out again.  I’ve worn this top so many times since making it back in December!!  I hadn’t realised it was that long ago – apologies for the extremely late blog post!  I will make this again, and in this sort of weight fabric.  A jersey with more drape than this would go straight into the bit at the first attempt at ironing the neckline and a stiffer jersey would be too thick.  Perhaps a thin viscose ponte would be nice.

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Summertime Sewing

Still with me after that break?  Sewing has been a little on the slow side, and most of it has been for the girls, which means that photos are few and far between!  I haven’t anything earth shattering to show you, and still haven’t sorted that post for the Terra Pants.  Why?  Well – I’m not convinced that they were right for me.  Looking back at the photos and knowing how I feel when wearing them, the shape just isn’t me.  So instead I thought I’d play things safe, and reverted to a favourite pattern of mine, the Teddy Designer Pants from Style Arc.

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This is version number 6!  I had a length of viscose linen in the stash that I’d bought from Rainbow Fabrics Kilburn last summer, is was a beigey-ivory colour that I knew wasn’t going to stay that way!  It was instantly dyed Pewter Grey, but then found itself back in the stash.  I had bought another piece of the viscose linen in rust and made a Zadie Jumpsuit with it, only to discover that it was too heavy and had too much drape to be a jumpsuit.  That garment is still waiting for me to take the top of and turn the whole thing into something more suitable.  So I was concerned that the fabric was too drapey and needed to be sure I’d got the right pattern next time.

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In the end I decided on the Teddy Pants because the drape would be fine and I could interface the waistband sufficiently to control any movement there.  It was a good choice!  I made the 12 with only a leg length adjustment that I’d made way back when I made the first pair.  I have also already adjusted the inseam pockets to be caught into the waistband – otherwise they flap around and drive me nuts.  I have fancy pockets in these, using up scraps of Liberty to reduce bulk and make it easier to iron!

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There isn’t much to say about these, they’re so comfy to wear and I love the relaxed fit and big pleat.  They will not be my last pair.  Not something I can say about those poor Terra Pants…

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Work in Progress 1/2022

Woohoo, first Work in Progress of the year!  This time there’s no tutorial or how to, just me trying to hold myself accountable to the ongoing list in my head!  Sooo…  In progress are a couple of projects for the girls and some projects taking care of the growing mountain of scraps in the corner of the sewing room.

Starting with the girls’ projects.  Waistcoats – or vests for my American friends.  I have been informed that those delightful fashions of the 90s are back in vogue, and top on the list of those fashions are waistcoats.  Daughter No1 is particularly keen on a waistcoat as top, so I trawled through 5 years of Burda magazines from 1996 to 2000 and found two patterns she liked, also found a pattern envelope in the pattern drawers and another that was the same as one of the magazine ones, but available in more sizes.

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I’ve toiled Burda 2889 and New Look 6943, and I think she’s gong to prefer the fit of the Burda.  I need to post these now and I hope there won’t be too many fitting adjustments to be made.  She’s wanting one in black and another in white, so as soon as I know one of them is the winning pattern, I’ll get buying fabric!

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Waistcoat patterns

Daughter No 2 is also on a 90s vibe, and fancies some of the long, flowing viscose dresses we used to wear.  Again, the Burda magazines have come up trumps and I have a pattern to toile this week.  It’s number 129 from the April 1994 (South African edition) magazine.  We had a video call over two boxes of magazines and there are a few other things she’s after, but I won’t list them all now!  I’ll start with the dress and trace the others after it’s toiled.

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Dress 129 from the April 1994 Burda magazine – South African issue

However, I have made another toile for her, a pair of shorts from what I’m sure is a very late 80s pattern, although it might be early 90s.  New Look 6009 has three shorts offerings, we’ve gone with the longer length with turn-ups.  Again. toile is done, just need a fitting done.  Fingers crossed, because I really like this pattern!!

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New Look shorts 6009

So that’s what’s on my sewing table for the girls, looks like summer is on the way!!  Do you have summer sewing plans?  I can’t say I have a pressing desire to sew anything massively summery for myself just yet – I’m sitting here with thick socks and a chunky jumper on to keep warm!

Little Black Jacket

Way back last year in November, I was making a little black jacket – one I had hoped would be the warmer version of my little navy linen jacket that is so useful in the summer.  The pattern is 111 from the August issue of BurdaStyle magazine, 2021.  I’ll have to link to the Work in Progress post – it’s so long ago now!!  The details of what I needed to adjust for fitting are in that post, as well as a tutorial on how I do my in-seam pockets.   I took photos not long after the jacket was completed, but wasn’t entirely convinced with it.  Why?  Well, I wasn’t happy with the way the fabric behaved while sewing, for the most part.

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Burda jacket 111 August 2021

Despite being washed, dried and ironed well before use, it shrunk again in the construction process, something I only discovered when I put facings to the shell, and tried to mark the positions of the snaps.  However, despite those initial misgivings, I have to say I rather like this little jacket!  It has been used on those days when I don’t need a coat, and is nice and roomy so a thick jumper can fit underneath!

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Lets get into the details shall we?  The body is not fitted, the boxy shape allows for the addition of snuggly jumpers and rolled up scarves.  I also love the back pleated into a yoke, plenty of movement in this.  The sleeves too are not fitted.  They are constructed in three pieces and have a balloon shape – again with the jumpers, you don’t feel like the michelin man with your jumper bunched up in a too-tight sleeve!

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Lining leftover from the rust corduroy Burda jacket made a couple of years ago

The texture on the fabric stops the black from being plain and boring, and the use of the patterned black and white viscose lining lifts the interior.  I went with plain black snaps, uncovered, to give a more sporty look to the jacket.  The only criticism I have about the jacket is the pockets.

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They’re too high up and too far round in the side seam to be comfortably used.  You really cannot put anything in there that you wouldn’t want falling out either, they don’t scoop much and I definitely don’t put my phone in these.  And in the making up – the pocket bags are in the way of the sewing up of the hem!  The lower opening of the pocket lines up directly with the turned up hem edge.  I had to so some serious detouring around the pocket bags.  Next time I’ll make a patch pocket with a welt opening, similar to that of the Pepernoot coat from Waffle Patterns.  If I even bother with a pocket at all, the jacket is quite short, so hands in pockets means elbows out and bumping into things.

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But – with all the pocket palava – I still like this jacket.  I have reached for it often and I really like the shape.  I still have that pile of old holey jeans waiting to be magically turned into something fabulous, and I’m getting quite keen ideas on using some of those to make another of these little jackets – unlined and with patch pockets!!

I’ll recap those items I’ve made and not “reviewed” during April, and try to keep up with the new stuff.  I think this year will be slow sewing for myself, and quicker sewing for the girls and the other half.  I seem to recall I promised him some self drafted shorts last summer…..

Is Anyone Still Out there?

Hello there, is anyone still around?  I’ve been awol for a while, just not in the mood for blogging, and for a while now, not in the mood for sewing either!  I’m aware that I haven’t shown what was made in the close of last year, there are a couple of items that probably should be seen!  But this year has seen my sewing in a real funk.

January started all bright and bushy with me rescuing some table linens and I thought I’d have some fun with natural dyes and upcycle them into something more useful.  I’ve dyes a bit but not made anything – the only thing that did work out was a blue linen embroidered tablecloth that was a little holey in areas.  I managed to cut some pouches out which have worked out really well.  I used the Petal Pouch by Noodlehead and the Essential Pouch by Sotak Handmade.  As for any other sewing – it just wasn’t happening.

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Petal Pouch by Noodlehead
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The Essential Pouch by Sotak Handmade

Then when the Russian invasion of Ukraine happened, I definitely didn’t feel like sewing!  But – I could do something else.  Those little blue linen pouches were the perfect items to sell to raise money to donate to the various organisations that were offering help.  I sold them all and some of the patchwork linen ones I’d made last year too, making a total of almost £150.

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I’ve bought some digital cross stitch patterns from a couple of Ukranian based Etsy sellers which I thought I might try to do over the summer, sitting in the allotment with my feet up…  And generally not forced myself to sew if I didn’t feel like it.

Eventually I got a little inspired and printed out a pattern I’d had for a while, the Terra Pants from Pattern Fantastique.  I really like the asthetic of these and figured I could use a bit of stash fabric up and ease myself back into sewing – slowly.  The toile was made in cream curtain lining – probable not the best choice for a baggy pants pattern!!  I was unconvinced for a while until a couple of sewing friends disagreed with my assessment!

I went ahead with them in some soft dark blue denim and I’m convinced!  I really like them – but you’re going to have to wait for photos and details!  I’ve worn them once but was unable to get photos at the time, so here’s hoping the next week or so will provide the perfect opportunity.  In the mean time, I hope you’re all still out there and sewing or doing whatever makes you feel good.

Work in Progress Wednesday 6/21

I bet you hadn’t expected to read that title today!  To be honest, I really expected the next post to be the completed jacket, but other things have cropped up to delay the completion, and I’ve had to jump onto another project with a tight timeframe in the interim!

Daughter No1 has a favourite white shirt, bought a few years ago now from Zara.  It’s not only her favourite white shirt, I think I can say it’s her favourite shirt, hands down.  So she wanted another – here’s where I step in.  Can’t be that hard to copy a shirt pattern, right?  Except that she cannot part with it very long, I have a short attention span, and I cannot take it apart….  Anyway, she left it with me a few weeks (at least a month) ago and I promised that I’d make a pattern from it and return it to her, asap.

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The white shirt, collar, sleeve and concealed button fly

This weekend she asked, could she please have her favourite shirt back, she needs it!  Bother – I haven’t done anything with it!!  So on Monday afternoon I started figuring out how to do this.  I’ve not actually made a pattern from a whole garment before, I’ve aways been able to cut them up!  I started by pinning the front to some pattern paper, keeping the fabric smooth and trying not to stretch anything.  It worked up to a point, getting to the whole of the shoulder line and the armscye got tricky and I had to unpin some lower areas to release the tension.  I used a pin to pierce the fabric along the seam lines at sides, shoulder, neck and armhole, and just traced the outline of the front edge and the hem.  I did the same with the back, and found out that it was off grain when I tried identifying the centre line…  Also, the hem on the back is asymmetrical – this is not a design feature!

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The sleeve has pleat details, edgestitching on collar, cuffs and front edges

Laying the two pieces over each other made me doubt that I’d done this right, the shoulders and armholes didn’t look right.  A little Googling later I had decided on another course of action.  I have a roll of freezer paper sent over to me ages ago by an American friend.  I decided I’d iron this to the shirt, draw through the seam lines, peel it off and voila, I’d have a pattern piece.  Again, this worked – to a point.  Because it’s a large shirt I needed to move it around the ironing board a fair bit, so I couldn’t be sure that I’d not distrubed the grain, not stretched it out.

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Freezer paper makes copying garments easier

However, when I compared the shapes obtained this way to the pinning method, they weren’t all that far off!!  So, after checking the side seams were the same length, and the hem curve worked, I combined areas of the fronts and backs, traced both pieces and added front stand, seams, etc.  Now for the sleeve!  Sleeve is tricky, it has a box pleat at the sleeve head and a corresponding pleat at the cuff, but they are different sizes.  There are another two single pleats in the sleeve head, one on each side of the box pleat.  How to do this one??

I started with measurements.  Length of sleeve seam, length from shoulder point to cuff, width of cuff, width of sleeve (including pleats) at cuff.  Then I got happy with the freezer paper again, pressing it over the pleats and just marking where they go on the sleeve head.  I ended up with a fairly good approximation of what the sleeve would look like, just needed to add the pleats!  But – the sleeve head is not right, it’s too flat.  I’ll have to come up with a different way to copy this part.

I’ve checked all the edges, trued up the lines and walked the sleeve around the armscye on front and back, and it all fits.  The collar stand and collar were pinned to paper and I used the pin piercing method here again.  Walking the patterns along the seamlines shows they fit again, so I think I’m ready to make a toile.  I’ve allowed decent seam allowances so I can tweak areas if needed.

And the original shirt?  That’s in a first class package winging it’s way to London!  I just hope I’ve got all the info I need and that this toile works!!  Have you copied an intact garment before?  What methods did you use that were most successful?

Work in Progress Wednesday 5/21

I haven’t intended to have so few Work in Progress posts this year, it’s not as if I haven’t been sewing – just not thinking of taking photos while I work and getting round to posting anything!  Today I’ve made a start on a new jacket.  I’d realised that I had no black jacket for the winter – time to put that right.  As I said in a previous post, the Burda patterns haven’t exactly been inspiring lately, but there were two in the August magazine that caught my eye.  I’ve already made the trousers, this is the other pattern.

Jacket 111 Burda August 2021

Jacket 111 is slightly boxy, hip length, double breasted with collar and interesting sleeves.  It was the sleeves that made me stop and look again, they’re cut in three, with horizintal seams.  Volume has been added in each piece, creating a cocoon shape which is emphasised in the magazine’s version with piping.  Initially I wanted to use up the remains of the cotton jaquard from my Mother’s Day coat, and add plain navy.  But it wasn’t to be, there just wasn’t enough of the jaquard.  But I had something else…

I traced the 44 and toiled in some old curtain fabric, waiting to see what I’d need in the way of an FBA.  I didn’t need any width, there’s plenty of ease in this jacket!  But I needed the shoulders to be narrower, they hung over too far, even for a loose, casual fitting jacket.  I altered the line of the armhole to take into account 1cm of shorter shoulder seam, and it’s worked.  For the bust, I decided on moving the bust dart down 2cm and then adding depth in the front.  I added 2cm of depth, and took in the excess at the side seam in the dart.

A second toile of the front (I took the seam ripper to the first front pieces and took them off) revealed the adjustments worked.  I left the length of the jacket and sleeves alone, they’re all fine.  I had thought to make welt pockets in the front, instead of the inseam pockets the pattern has, but got lazy and just left the existing pockets!

Interfacing and support

I chose not to add all the structure I’d usually use to this jacket.  I have the standard interfacing, weft insertion fusible on the t-front, back yoke and supporting the underarms, sleeve head, collars and a lighter weight fusible on the facings.  I’ve also added 5cm deep bias cut interfacing to the hem area to support the fold.  I’ve also kept the cotton fusible tape along the front edge to stop it stretching out of shape and just make that area all nice and crisp.  What I’ve left out is the canvas chest piece that always goes into one of my jackets.  But I have decided shoulder pads are a must.  The pattern doesn’t call for shoulder pads, but it just didn’t look right like that, I much prefer it with the pads in.

Sleeve details, no piping this time, just topstiched seams

I thought I’d share my method of sewing inseam pockets in this post.  This method gives you a really nice neat finish, I never use the Burda method!  Well, not any more, anyway!  So here goes.  First thing  to do is to consider whether or not the fabrics you’re using need support.  If you’re like me, your pockets are going to be well used!  Another thing to look at is the weight of your fabric – mine is bulky so I’ve chosen to cut the pockets from the lining fabric but I don’t want to see lining fabric when I open the pocket.  So I’ve cut a 5cm wide pocket facing that will be attached to the back pocket piece.

pocket bag with facing

Start with placing the front pocket pieces right sides together with the front pieces and sew along the seam line between the markings.  Start and stop exactly on the markings.  Then snip, at a slight angle from the edge of the fabric to the markings/end of stitching.  Go slow here, you can always snip a little more, but once you’ve gone too far you’ll have to start again.  Then press the pocket bag seam with the seams under the pocket bag and understitch from mark to mark again.  Turn that under and press well.

Stitch pocket to front between markings
Snip to end of stitching
Understitch pocket bag
Press packet bag to the inside and topstitch if you want to

If you’re facing the pocket, sew it onto the pocket bag now.  Then place the pocket bag ontop of the front pocket bag and sew around the bag, neatening the edges afterwards.  I like to double stitch pockets in jackets, if I get a hole, I have another line of defense!  And overlocking, or zigzag stitching helps the edges not to fray while bouncing around between your jacket fabric and the lining.

I stitch a double row around the pocket bag and overlock the edges
Finished pocket, topstitched
And it’s big enough to stash all sorts of things in!
Jazzy lining and a complete pocket

This method of sewing your inseam pockets results in a nice neat finish, the Burda instructions will give you a pocket, but it won’t be as nice as these!

So, pockets, shoulder seams, collar, side seams, sleeves – shell done.  Tomorrow I’ll sew up the lining and attach it to the facings, turn up the hems and tidy the last tailor’s tacks.  But I need to decide on snaps, it’ll all depend on whether the local shop has black snaps in a suitable size.  If they only have silver ones, I’ll probably cover them with black lining fabric.  I don’t want shiny silver snaps!  Hopefully they have something I can use, otherwise I’ll have to order something online and the completion will be delayed.  Not that I don’t have anything else to be getting on with in the mean time!

I’m curious about your chosen inseam pocket method, do you have one method you always use?  Or do you follow the instructions that come with the particular pattern you’re using?

Diving into the Pattern Archives

It’s no secret that I have a large vintage pattern collection.  I’ve been trying for ages now to shrink it, largely unsuccessfully!  I had a good clearout last month and got ruthless – I’m only keeping the patterns I love (no matter what size they are) and those that will fit the girls.  Everything else must go!  In that clearout, I re-found a Burda pattern for wide legged pleated trousers.  They sit on the waist, have a decent sized box pleat in the front and a fly zip.  They look good!

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Burda 3057

I decided I’d have to make them and promptly bought 2m of birds-eye navy wool flannel from Fabworks for the job.  I toiled the 44 and made some adjustments to the pattern.  The legs were very wide!  So I graded down to the 40, from the 44 at the hip down.  As they were to sit on my non-existant waist, I had to grade up to the 46 for the waistband, plus a little bit.  They also needed to be shortened.  A lot!!  But the rest was great, the crotch depth and curve worked with the style of the pants, and I love the way the pleat covers the top part of the pocket.

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Burda trousers, pattern number 3075 from the 1990s

And while we’re talking pockets – these babies are huge!!!  I can fit my entire handbag of stuff in there!  When did pockets become so unuseable, if they could make them so usefully sized back in the 90s?  I decided that as I was using such a lovely wool that I’l line the trousers – fully!  Fabworks were offering 3m of matching lining free when you bought a certain amount of wool from them at the time of shopping, so I used what they sent.  It’s a really good quality viscose twill, in lucious navy blue.

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Big pockets and a nifty pleat detail

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I cut the lining by pinning the hip yoke pocket piece to the trouser front and treating them as one piece.  The lining was made up the same as the trouser, and attached to the waistband at the top.  I handstitched it to the fly area.  The lining hangs free down to the hem, I like to have it free for ironing after washing, makes it easier.

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I bloody love these pants!!!  Wool flannel is just so fabulous to wear, it’s warm and cosy and has such a wonderful drape!  Wearing these pants feels like swooshing around in a long skirt, but much more practical.  I was initially worried that lining the wool would make the trouser legs feel wider, because of the extra layer of fabric.  But I don’t feel funny in these at all.  I’ve bought another length of wool flannel, this time from Rosenberg & Son when they came to Knowle at the beginning of October – there might be another pair of these in the wardrobe soon, in grey herringbone!  Or I might try another vintage pattern, so many to choose from!

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ps, If you’re after anything (vintage pattern-wise), drop me an email and I’ll see if I have something suitable.  At the moment I’m updating my Etsy shop, it will be open again on the 1st November!

Wardrobe Basics – Trousers

When you live in trousers, they’re not simply a wardrobe basic, they’re an essential item!  I decided to add some pleated trousers to this year’s Autumn/Winter wardrobe, and have finally made something from one of the Burda magazines from this year.  Burda have, unfortunately, not exactly been exciting this year.  Only a couple of patterns have caught my attention, and until August, none caught it enough for me to actually bother to trace.  But this pair is different, it’s 119 from August 2021.  What caught my eye was the small pleats on the front, the neat waistband and tapered leg.

Trousers 119 Burda August 2021

I traced the 44 and 42 and made an adjustment to the height of the waistband.  While I liked the neatness of it, I also knew I’d prefer a slightly deeper waistband.  I toiled the 44, but started grading towards the 42 from the hip down.  The toile was successful, I only had a couple of adjustments to make.

  • Not making my usual shorten the length adjustment – this style should be slightly cropped, but it’s heading to winter and I don’t want cold ankles!
  • Altered the CF line – straightened it a bit so it was 5mm further out at the top, giving me an extra 1cm overall.
  • Took in the inseam by 1cm front and back from crotch to knee.
  • Made the waistband 1cm deeper.

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The adjustments have worked well, I like the fit on these, so will be making another pair soon.  I will, however, make them a little longer.  The length looks good, and while it’s not freezing, they’re fine, but I want a longer pair!  So the next pair will be 3cm longer.  Looking at the photos, I think I need to take in a bit more on the inseam, it looks a bit baggy there, but I also need to remember that these are not supposed to be skintight!

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In-seam pocket details

In toiling, I realised there’d be a lot of bulk at the waistband from the pockets, so I cut a pocket facing for the back pocket piece and rifled through the stash of scraps for a lightweight bit of pretty cotton.  I found I had just enough to cut the rather-large-for-Burda pockets from the pretty stuff, and only tiny bits leftover to head into the stuffing bag.  These inseam pockets are a really good size, phone in one and mask and card wallet in the other, with space to spare for hands!

mocha 4

The trouser fabric is a cotton twill in Mocha bought from the Rag Shop in August, I don’t think they have any of that colour left now.  It’s Kobe cotton twill, and it’s also one of those fabrics you need to be sure to wash inside out.  I washed the trousers after the first wearing without turning them inside out and the creases formed while washing have lost a bit of colour.  This means that all folded edges will lose colour too.  I wouldn’t mind if it was a cheap, £7/m fabric, but it wasn’t.  I haven’t bought a Robert Kaufman fabric before, and it might be joining Lady McElroy fabrics in the “avoid” pile due to colour fade.  It’s beautfully soft though, and lovely to wear.  Just watch the colour fading.

mocha 5

collage mocha 2
Detail shots

I wore these for the first time on a long weekend trip to York, they were very comfy to wear traipsing round the city all day.  They’ve since been worn a few times and I really do like the pattern.  I know Burda don’t have the best sizing these days, they used to go from a 34 to a 46 in the “everybody” section of the magazine, but these are just 36-44.  I feel they are trying to save money by reducing the sizes available, the number of patterns in the magazine and the quality of the magazine paper itself.  It’s a shame, as the old magazines were fabulous!  Perhaps a revisit of those older magazines is in order.

mocha 9

79a991f0-8f45-4e7f-a58c-38700fb06608
York Minster behind, trousers worn with silk Burda top made in 2018.

In the mean time, I’ve traced a jacket pattern from the August issue to toile, I have a retro (90s) pair of Burda trousers to show you and I have Lander pants to make for both girls – not to mention a VikiSews blouse for daughter no1 and a Bellatrix blazer for each of them.  Thank godness the garden and allotment have stopped shouting for my attention!

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