How to Make a Wiggle Skirt – Veronica

Here it is then, a tutorial to make your own Veronica wiggle skirt.  Now bear in mind that this is just the way I did my pattern.  Every patterncutter has their own methods.  This one works for me.  There will be some re-working required, all depending on exactly what you want to end up with, so be prepared to change measurements, angles & distances – and making more than one toile!

Firstly, trace off your skirt block.  If you don’t have one yet, here are some instructions. The length will be up to you, but should be a decent length to “wiggle” in!  I made Veronica 68cm long, from the waist.  Daughter No2 is pretty tall though, so go for a length that hits you just below the knee for a good look.

Your traced skirt block should look something like this:

Your traced skirt block, fitted and altered to your figure.
Your traced skirt block, fitted and altered to your figure.

Step 1:

The first thing I did was to change the shape of the skirt.  I took 2.5cm off the hem line on each side seam and about 1cm at the hip line.  I joined the hem point to the hip point and then up tot he original line at the waist.  This gives an overall tighter fit as you are removing some of the ease over the hip.  I also moved the back seam in 1cm.  This came to a point approximately 10-12cm below the hip line.  Made sure when you are doing this that your lines flow easily & there are no jerky joins to original seam lines.  Also, may I remind you at this point there are no seam allowances on this pattern.  All the lines you are drawing are going to be your stitching lines – seam allowances will be added at the end.

Altering the side & back seams
Altering the side & back seams

Step 2:

Now to move the dart & change the angle of it.  I wanted the dart to angle towards the hip & to be further from the side seam to accommodate the pocket.  I moved the dart position towards the centre by 3cm and shortened it by 3cm.  The original dart was 10cm long, but I didn’t want the pocket to be that low down.  Also, the style line had to be altered, so when redrawing the dart I didn’t keep it on the same plane as the original.  The left leg of the dart runs almost parallel to the centre front.  The dart is still the same width, 2cm.

Moving the dart.
Moving the dart.

Step 3:

Drawing in the stlye line of the pocket.  I started about 5cm up from the hip line and played with various combinations of angles to get this right.  It really will be up to you as to where it all ends up, but the sketch shows where my pocket eventually ended up.  I did two toiles to get this to just the right place, so maybe you could start by drawing on a toile to get the correct placement for you.  The base of the dart will be the jumping off point for the pocket, so think about the angles between the right dart leg, the pocket opening line & the return.  the dart legs will become seams for the skirt front & the hip yoke pocket piece, eliminating the dart as such.

Adding the pocket.
Adding the pocket.

Step 4:

Trace off the pocket pieces as seperate items.  You will have a hip yoke pocket piece, a pocket bag & the skirt front & the back.  The red lines on my pattern here are the cutting lines.  Remember to add notches, grainlines and name the pattern pieces!  Also, at this point you will need to add seam allowances.  Add 1.5cm everywhere and don’t forget the hem.  For a good weight on a skirt like this add 3-4cm.

The finished pattern pieces, all ready for seams & sewing!
The finished pattern pieces for Veronica, all ready for seams & sewing!


 
If you have any queries, please comment below.  Have fun now!  🙂

***EDIT***

I am working on making this pattern available as a pdf download.  If you’d be interested, please leave a comment below.

Rock Chick Veronica

My little rock chick!
My little rock chick!

Thank you all so much for the fabulous, positive comments about Veronica!  This is one cool skirt pattern, and this is one cool skirt! So cool, we needed another.  😉

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The fabric is from my stash, a John Kaldor print on stretch cotton sateen.  I’d bought it for trousers for myself about 3-4 years ago, but then Daughter no1 bagged it for something for her.  We never got round to choosing exactly what to make with it, it’s always tricky cutting into nice fabric when you’re not 100% sure of what you’re wanting.  This week I finally made her some trousers from a Burdastyle mag (which she loves!), and had enough left over for something else.  This skirt, for example!

DSC04410-1What can I say, I love this print in this skirt, & I love it even more with the black biker jacket & wedges!

A little attitude...
A little attitude…

I didn’t match any patterns, with only 1m left over there was no way of doing it, besides, I kinda like the way the pattern gets chopped up & re-assembled.  It’s a bit subversive, isn’t it?

DSC04412-1I hope you’re all getting ready for the tutorial on how to make your own version of this, and of Barbara.  I have been working on 1/4 scale versions of the pattern, hopefully next week it will all be ready to post.  I leave you with one final look at the funky pockets & buttons.

DSC04421-1In the mean time, I need to crack on with a new outfit to wear to the Mercedes Benz Club’s annual SL Day next weekend.  Typical I decide I want something new to wear with only days to spare….

Veronica – a 50’s inspired wiggle skirt

Veronica
Veronica

And so the skirt story continues…  This fabulous little number is the 2nd of the wiggle skirts to be made from the same basic pattern.  This one & Barbara share the same bones, only the pocket treatments are different.  And this one is 4cm longer.

The fantastic fabric was a purchase from Rosenberg at the Sewing Show in Birmingham earlier this year & we love the colour!  The lining is in a similar colour from Fred Winter in Stratford on Avon.  So unfortunately this doesn’t count as a stash busting project as I bought the fabric this year, but it is only the 5th project I’ve specifically bought fabric for – out of a total of 50 projects of all sorts completed so far this year, I think that’s pretty good going!  I’m not counting the fabric I need to buy for the Etsy shop items though, that would be unrealistic!

Barbara on the left & Veronica on the right.
Barbara on the left & Veronica on the right.

Veronica was “inspired” by a rather fabulous late 1940’s dress pattern I’d seen on Pinterest.  It has some really interesting style lines, but I loved the pocket treatments on the skirt.

McCalls 7719 afternoon frock  with interesting pockets
McCalls 7719 afternoon frock with interesting pockets

Again, I used the dart as a seamline and created the pockets from there.  The dart needed to be moved over towards the centre a bit, & angled further to create the right line.  I drew it all on the pattern in pencil to start & ran up a quick toile to check the angles, then drew all over the toile to correct the shape!  This is what the final pieces ended up looking like…  Sorry it’s all a bit fuzzy, darned mobile camera is not the best.

veronica 2
Veronica – the pattern pieces

I will definitely do a tutorial on how to make both Veronica & Barbara in the next month or so, so if you’d like to make a skirt like this for yourself, follow the instructions to draft & fit a basic skirt block so you’re ready!

So, without further ado, I give you..  Veronica!  😀

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Bound hem hand stitched in place.
Bound hem hand stitched in place.
Another succes - I think..  ;)
Another succes – I think.. 😉

 

 

 

Barbara – a 50’s inspired wiggle skirt

So after the catching up, the commercial patterns, the vintage patterns & the founding of my very own little Etsy shop (which has new goodies, btw)………  Back to something this blog was started for –   Patterncutting!!!

Ok, it’s not exactly earth-shatterning, but it’s a start.  As I said before, Daughter No2 is rather taken with the whole vintage thing, and it looks sooo good on her!  She starts 6th form in September (for those of you not in the UK, this is the last 2 years of high school) & the kids don’t need to wear school uniform anymore.  Not that they get to wear jeans & converses either – the new uniform is “Business Wear”.  Now we did this with Daughter No1, I made & bought all sorts of smart clothes, only for her to ditch the entire lot at the beginning of University, because no-one wears that sort of stuff!  Grrrr

Anyway, I digress.  Daughter No2 wanted to start with skirts.  Pencil skirts & wiggle skirts.  I posted some sketches I’d done, & she’d approved a couple of posts ago.  I have done the patterns for two of them, and made one of the skirts in between getting sidetracked & distracted by other shiny new things!

1950's inspired pencil skirts
1950’s inspired pencil skirts

So what we are after are simple pencil skirt shapes, with detail.  These two focus on the pockets.  I’d seen some patterns on Pinterest & Etsy, unfortunately either the wrong size, or already sold, and we decided to see if I could run them up!  We started with the one on the left, which Daughter No2 has called the Barbara skirt.

I used the dart (moved over towards the centre front a bit) as the starting point for the pocket, which also ended up being more curved than the initial sketch.  The skirt is pegged at the hem, I took in 2.5cm on each side seam & the same at the back.  Initially I was going to put a vent or slit at the back to enable walking, but after the toile she decided she didn’t need/want one this time.  How cool would it look with a little godet though??

The pattern pieces for Barbara
The pattern pieces for Barbara

These are the working pattern pieces for the skirt, you can see my adjustments & alterations scribbled all over them.  Once I am happy with the look, fit etc, I trace these off with the required markings so I can see what’s going on, but I always keep the working patterns to keep track of my fiddling!  The skirt sits properly on the waist, with a straight, narrow waistband.

Showing off the pockets
Showing off the pockets

The fabric is a mid-mod inspired print by John Kaldor in cotton with the teeniest amount of stretch.  I bought this aaaages ago, and made a skirt for myself, but had quite a bit leftover!  I decided a contrast pocket band would look good, but didn’t have a piece of black in a suitable weight cotton to match, so went with white.

Barbara skirtThe just-above-the-knee length works quite well.  The proper 50’s length would have definitely necessitated a walking vent, but Daughter No2 didn’t want it that long.

Barbara skirtI love how this skirt shows off her shape, without being too tight & revealing.   It’s quite grown-up!  😀

Barbara skirt with Jacket
Barbara skirt with Jacket

She even chose this skirt to wear on the induction day at the beginning of July, before jetting off to Sardinia with her best friend for 2 weeks.  I know she is looking forward to seeing what else I’ve made while she’s been gone….  I think I may have got sidetracked again & made something else!  Oops!  😀