Autumnal Sewing

I’ve realised that this year, I’ve worn a lot of jersey tops.  They’re so easy to wear, wash and not necessarily iron before wearing again!  But I love the smart look of a nice blouse too, and one I can wear pretty much all year round sounds perfect to me!  Recently, I “discovered” a new fabric shop.  Someone I follow on Instagram had posted in her stories, a delicious looking pile of recent online purchases from a little independent shop in London, Rainbow Fabrics.

Of course, I had to take a peek at their IG page, stories and website and ended up buying a few metres of different fabrics.  Then, 2 weeks ago, I saw some fabulous fabrics turn up in their stories, and headed straight to the website to nab some for myself!  Bear in mind – I’ve yet to make up the previous purchase!  This was becoming a dangerous shop to follow.  Anyway, I bought 7m of different viscoses on the weekend Boris announced the impending lockdown – as you do.

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Viscose purchases from Rainbow Fabrics

The fabric arrived nice and fast and I knew immediately what I was going to make!  Lets start at the beginning, shall we?  The first one I wanted to make was another version of a vintage Vogue pattern I made last year.  I just had a feeling that the pattern would suit the print of the viscose.

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I made the same adjustments to the pattern as I had the last time, but this time I left out the zip in the left side seam.  I really didn’t need it!  The construction was the same, French seams throughout and a little fine sheer polyester fusible on the neckband facings, cuffs and the slip on the sleeves.  Buttons are from the stash, a little faux leather button for the front and flat amber coloured buttons for the cuffs.

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Vintage Vogue 8095 in viscose

This is such a lovely pattern, and so nice to wear!  I love it in this print, which I was a little worried would be too busy for me to wear.  I have a habit of loving and buying fabric that, once made up I just can’t wear!  But I think this time I’ve got it right, and this stuff is going to be fabulous in my wardrobe, the colours work with all the trousers and jeans – and jumpers!  As the pattern doesn’t take as much fabric as I bought (2m), I have a bit left over that I’m hoping I’ll be able to cut a camisole out of.  I’ve not checked yet, so at the moment, that’s just a hope.  But it won’t go to waste, that’s for sure!

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Excuse the creases, I’m not just wearing the blouse to take pictures! This is real-life!

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So what else have I bought from Rainbow fabrics?  Well, I got 3m of striped viscose, 2m each of rust viscose jersery, rust plain viscose, and black and white spot viscose and 2m of rust cotton twill!  The sewing plans are developing….

 

Light as a Feather

Stashbusting is good this month!  I have finally, finally used a piece of viscose that I honestly cannot remember buying.  It’s been in the stash for what seems like ages, just waiting for the right project to come along (another of those!).  It’s a lovely drapey weight, closely woven, unlike some cheaper viscoses.  And the little feather print is lovely, without being too cute!  Really, I’ve earmarked this fabric to many a pattern over the last few years, but have always bottled it at the last minute.  So what happened this time?  Who’s the lucky pattern?

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Well, it’s actually a vintage Vogue, from 1956.  I’d always liked this pattern, the front is interesting with the dart pleats at the neckline.  But, I wasn’t the right size…  Thank goodness that’s all changed, and now I have a variety of 50’s Vogue patterns, jackets in particular, that I can make!  I’d come across it again while searching the vintage pattern stash for patterns I know I won’t use to re-stock the Etsy shop.  I took it out and checked mesurements – and realised I had to make it now!  A quick toile revealed it wasn’t tricky to put together, although I did manage to put the band on inside-out.  That’s mostly because I wasn’t concentrating on the right and wrong side of the fabric!  The toile showed I needed to take the shoulders in by 1cm and just let out the narrowness of the waist a little.

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Vogue blouse pattern 8095 dated 1956

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I didn’t cut the pattern up, just marked the edge of the armhole and shoulders with chalk and drew a new line 1cm in, tapering to the original line just over halfway down the curve.  The waistline was just as easily altered, chalk marked the new cutting line.  I French seamed wherever possible and used a polyester fine sheer fusible interfacing on the cuffs, back neck facing, front band and to support the fold in the front opening.  It was just enough to add support without bulk.

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There’s a zip in the left side seam to enable getting in and out of the blouse, although I suspect that by the time I’d widened the waist diameter, I could have just as easily pulled it over my head!  Not sure I want to check that now though..  I used a lightweight invisible zipper in that seam, not that it makes much difference to the stiffness of the zipper.  It did make it tricky to stitch close enough to the teeth to get a good invisible insertion though!  In the end I stitched 3 rows of increasingly closer stitching on that zip.  Got there in the end!  And, of course, to support the zip, I’d used a 2.5cm strip of interfacing on each of the seams.

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I’m really rather happy with the finshed blouse, the sleeves are the right length – I know, a little chilly for winter, but I’m constantly pushing my sleeves up anyway.  The hem is the right length too, I don’t like tops any longer than this.  It’s the right length to wear out, or tuck in.  And it goes with just about everything in the wardrobe!  Win, win, win!