true bias – THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS

Lovely Lander Pants

After making a pair about 2-3 years ago, I’ve finally made another pair of the Lander Pants, pattern by True Bias. It’s not been an intentional delay – I just needed the right fabric! My 3m purchase of the cotton/linen twill from Fabworks back in March was the perfect buy, and I knew I had a candidate for another pair of these trousers.

I’d made the size 12 the last time – but in a stretch denim – so needed to take them in to get the right fit. This time I went with the 12 again, but was prepared to have to possibly tweak in the plus side this time! I cut the pocket linings from a piece of leftover print cotton in the stash, and kept all the topstitching simple and in the same colour as the fabric.

landers 7 — Lander Pants with Burdastyle jacket

The outer leg seam is the one with the 2.5cm seam allowance, enabling a good chance at getting the fit tweaked over the hip and into the waist. I started with half of that, 1.25cm all the way down and tried the pants on. To my surprise, I realised I could take in the entire seam allowance again, from the top! So I popped it under the needle and stitched the 2.5cm allowance. It still fitted just fine! There was the right amount of snugness over the hip and tummy, the front crotch area had no lines and the back was ok too! Miracles!! So I popped the waistband on and voila!

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landers 4

I honestly expected to need more room than that, but they are comfortably snug, and only slightly loosen during the day with sitting and wandering about the house! (Still not really going anywhere) For the length, I needed to loose 9cm… So I turned up a 4.5cm hem twice – sorted! It gives a nice heavy weight to the hem, keeping the width of the trousers in place.

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landers 2

I’m loving these, definitely needed another pair, and the blue is perfect. These pants are going to be a great addition to the spring/autumn as well as winter wardrobes. Might even keep them out during the summer, for those definitely inclement rainy British “summer” days. And, given how delayed spring has been here in the UK this year, these trousers have been a properly good addition the my wardrobe!

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Chestnut Lander Pants

Oh, I do love these! After being a teeny tiny bit ranty the last time I blogged about these Lander Pants, I think I need to show the other side of the coin. Yes, the zip instructions were unduly complicated, but the rest of the making of the garment was just fine. And the finished result is a little more than “just fine”!

I overlocked the pieces either before sewing or as I went along, depending on what was required. The fabric I have used is a heavy-ish weight denim that I bought from Truro Fabrics back in September while on holiday. I had gone in to find something to buy, and I wasn’t disappointed! I left with two pieces of denim, zips for jeans and, new to me, a reel of Gutermann Denim Thread. The demin is gorgeous! It is woven with blue and chestnut coloured thread, instead of blue and white. The blue gives the chestnut a deep, rich colour, which I just love. So, as there’s more blue on the underside of the fabric, I used navy thread in the overlocker. I also used a 100 denim needle, it’s a chunky fabric.

chestnut 1 — True Bias Lander Pants in denim from Truro Fabrics

I lined the front patch pockets with a scrap of navy blue linen left over from my first Zadie Jumpsuit. Topstitching was done, anywhere I had two lines, with a denim twin needle! Get yourself one, it’s great for even, parallel lines of stitching, and makes your work look extra fabulous! The thread used, that Denim Thread, is thinner than regular topstitching thread and was recommended by the ladies at Truro Fabrics after I said that my Bernina has the biggest hissey fit when I try to use topstitching thread. I used it in the top (needle thread) only, and regular thread in the bobbin. That’s because I didn’t want to waste it! As it turns out, when I did use it in the bobbin, for the waistband topstitching, it went as wrong as regular topstitching thread. But not quite as bad. The thread comes in a variety of decent denim-y colours, and wasn’t a pricey alternative. I’ll definitely be using it again!

chestnut 4

The length of these pants is perfect for me, I had thought I’d need to cut a chunk off when I first put them on to check length, and turned up a nice healthy 8cm, but when I checked the hem requirements in the instructions, it says to turn up 6mm and then approx 7.5cm. Well, there’s your 8cm! Perfect! I can’t believe these and the Ash Jeans have been the perfect length, straight out of the envelope. These are the size 12, with an extra 1cm taken out of the outside seam to compensate for the small percentage of stretch that this denim has. I wore these pants all day and have to apologise for some creasing, although some is in the fabric after washing and storing. I hope they’ll soon wash/iron out! They’re a very comfortable par of trousers, and I’ll most definitely be making another pair.

chestnut 2 — I need to revisit the button position, you can see some pulling at the top of the zip, which means the button needs to move over.

Seasonally Inappropriate

There’s something about January that has me thinking of what to make for the summer, although we’re still 5 months (at least) off being able to wear anything! I had the opportunity to test the Morningside Shirt pattern by French Navy last year. I made a small size for Daughter No1 in a soft black linen and she loved it. I had always intended to make one for myself, I just needed to fit it into the list!

Eventually in January I managed to trace the XXL, which is where my measurements put me. However, this did mean a finished measurement of 133cm! That’s a good 26cm extra and 13cm more than I usually go for. I toiled it in some white cotton poplin from the leftovers stash. Halfway though cutting I thought if it worked, I could just wear it as is. But there wasn’t enough of the poplin to cut all the pieces. Typical! So I found a floral “burnout” cotton voile in the stash and cut the collar, sleeve cuffs and outer yoke.

whitemorning1 — The Morningside Shirt by French Navy

I probably ought to mention which version I am making! Not being a ruffle fan, I chose the Style A with the back pleat. It all went together really well, the instructions are clear. I left certain bits out, figuring I could go back and add them later, ie buttonholes etc. On putting the toile on, I realised I really could do with going down a size, and making the pattern in a fabric that has less body than the poplin. I also needed to add length across the bust, about 2cm would probably be enough. I certainly didn’t need any width. So, next time I’ll make the XL and add the length to the front.

Unfortunately, I won’t get to wear this shirt. Why? Because Daughter No2 stole it! She saw it on Peggy the dressmaker’s dummy when she came home after New Year and tried it on. She loves it all big and oversized! She honestly nicked it, it’s gone back to uni with her. I offered to add the buttons and buttonholes, but that was declined, she likes it just as it is. But maybe with something underneath so bra etc doesn’t show. How about a cami? An Ogden cami?

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I had enough of the floral voile to cut a size 4 in the Cami, even though her measurements put her in the 2. I’d made the size 0 for Daughter No1 last year and found it came up a little small, uncomfortably tight on the upper/high bust area. So I played it safe and went up a size for Daughter No2. Which, as it turned out, was the right decision! It was also the right decision to use the rest of that voile, the two work perfectly together.

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whitemorning4 — The cuff detail on the Morningside Shirt

The Ogden Cami is quick and easy to make, I just find it odd that the facings are so big/deep. Daughter No2 has ordered another in black silk, but without the facings and wide straps. So I guess that means I have to make bias strips with that slippery fabric. Nice… I also cut out a version in some leftover Liberty lawn. I’d used the fabric for a top for my Mum about 3 years ago, and there was enough to cut an Ogden, carefully! So that will be 3 camis in her wardrobe, in time for the coldest part of the winter so far. Timing! 😛

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