One more post squeezed into what’s left of 2018! I made these cropped trousers last month, but had to wait for assistance to get photos. I really need to make a plan with photographing trousers or dresses on my own. Anyway, the fabric is English wool suiting, with a textured herringbone stripe and a bit of colour that you really don’t read unless you’re up close and personal sewing it – or doing the ironing. It was a find from a charity shop!
I knew it would become a pair of cropped trousers, there wasn’t enough for a full length version. And I wasn’t keen on a skirt. I decided to use trousers 120 from Burda 7/2018 again. I like the slightly kicked out flare of the extension piece/ wide hem band(?). They also have a nice fit on my natural waist and are closer fitting around the hip area before becoming wider at the leg. I cut the pocket lining from a piece of navy and white cotton, but the rest is all wool. I like this fabric – it can go in the washing machine on a woollens cycle!
I’ve worn them a few times now, and I can say they’re really comfy to wear, are the perfect length and always get compliments! Today a little old lady told me I looked nautical”. I’ll take that. 🙂 Now, the only thing I can think of that might be missing from this pattern is a pocket on the bum. Such a handy thing to have, don’t you think? If you want to see the inners and a bit of construction, I posted a Work in Progress report on it that you can read here.
I’m hoping I’ll be able to get more photos of the other trousers I’ve been making and blog them soon!
Finally! I have some photos of the trousers I was making two weeks ago. I’ve worn them quite a bit since making them, mostly because I thought I’d be able to get photos, but no… Instead I had a comfy, warm day of wearing my new pants. I really do like this pattern, it will be good to make in a summer fabric too, linen or even viscose. A reminder that the pattern is 117 from November Burda 2018.
They were really easy and quick to make and they’re fab to wear. That could be because of the stretch content, of course! 😉 The piping in the waistband has the advantage of stopping the waistband stretching out. So it looks good and has a proper purpose! Detailed photos of the waistband and pockets are in that WIP post, link above.
The welt pocket is also good. Next time I’ll widen the welt and resulting pocket by 2-3cm. The original 14 cm is fine, and fits the phone, but it could do with being slightly roomier, making it easier to access said phone. For people with a wider phone than mine, it would also be a good idea to make the pocket wider!
The leg length is just fine. I had shortened the legs by 4cm and crossed my fingers that it would be ok. I still get a break on the top of my show, and honestly I wouldn’t want more than I’ve got in a stiff fabric like the denim. In a softer fabric, more of a break would look fine, so a longer length would work.
I just can’t decide what these are, jeans – or trousers?
Today, I’ve been making trousers. When the November issue of the Burda magazine finally landed in my sticky little paws, I wasn’t exactly inspired – not as much as I have been with previous issues. But one or two patterns did look appealing. I rather liked the trousers 117. I just happened to have a length of russet coloured stretch denim a friend sent me from the States… It was meant to be!
The pattern requires fabric with stretch, but doesn’t say what percentage. However, as one of the views was made in jersey, I figure it needs a fair bit. My denim had that fair bit, so I decided to wing it and see what happened. I’ll not go into fitting and toiling details here, I cut the 44 and shortened the leg length by 4cm.
The trousers in the magazine have a decorative ribbon down the outside leg seam and piping in the waistband, the jersey version has piping on the waistband. Initially I thought this was just a sewn on detail, but the outer waistbands are actually in two pieces, an upper and lower. So now you have somewhere to stick that piping! I wasn’t going to bother, I figured I’d just use the inner waistband pieces and cut two of each, but… I had piping in the stash, so might as well use some of it up in a practical manner.
I didn’t follow the order of work in the instructions. By the way, has anyone else noticed there is no longer a cutting layout? It was there in the October magazine, but “poof” no more! I started with the fronts, overlocked the edges and made up the hip yoke pockets. I used a left over piece of Liberty poplin for the inner pocket bag to reduce bulk. I’ve used that left over piece quite a bit now, I wonder if it will ever get finished! The pocket bag is understitched along the opening edge to keep the cotton from rolling out. Once the pockets were done, I sewed the centre front seam from the top edge to just above where the crotch curve starts.
Then it was the back pieces. Darts first, then pocket. I realised, when tracing out the pieces, that the welt on the back was faux, just for show! Now I don’t know about you, but if I’m going to all the trouble of interfacing and cutting my trousers to insert a welt, I want a pocket to go with it!! So that’s what I did. I like to put my phone in my back pocket, that’s where it basically lives. So I measured it and cut two rectangles from the poplin the width of the pocket welt and the depth of the phone plus a few centimetres. Basically 14×18. Then I cut two welt pieces, one to use for the actual welt, and one to sew to the top of one of the rectangles as a facing. I made the welt pocket up as standard. I’m quite chuffed with it, it’s the perfect size for my phone, but if you want to use it for anything else, you’d better make yours a little wider, add a cm each side of the opening and all pieces.
Once that was done I sewed the centre back seam as I had done the front, then moved on to the waistband pieces. The piping was added to the upper seamline of the lower waistband, then the upper waistband was sewn on top. I graded the seams to reduce bulk and clipped to allow the curve to lie flat. When I clip a curved seam, I always do it on the bias, the theory is that the fabric won’t fray or rip on the bias. If you cut with the grain, it might rip through your stitching. Not that I’ve had that happen in the past, but just in case, right? I made up the front and back waistbands and then attached them to their trouser legs. Then I inserted the invisible zip in the left side seam. It needed a little fiddling to make sure the piping and waistband edge lined up, because of the bulk it wanted to move down when I sewed, so I ended up unpicking a couple of times, and using loads of pins!
After that it was all downhill, the remainder of the leg seams were stitched and pressed, the inner wiastband pieces interfaced with a lightweight fusible and sewn to the top of the outer pieces. I understitched the waistband and trimmed the lower edge before folding the remaining seam allowance under and stitching in the ditch from the outside. Then it was just the hems and voila!! One new pair of trousers! I do like that piping detail, it’s just a pity no-one will really see it. I don’t tuck my tops in, so the only people to see that detail will be you guys now, and me later!
I’ll be sure to get photos asap, along with pictures of my new tees! Yesterday I ran up two stripey 3/4 sleeve Lark tees, the perfect colours to go with these new pants. I am really looking forward to having these pants in my wardrobe, just like the paprika linen pants I made in the summer! It’s nice to have that splash of colour to play with in amongst the blues, back and greys.
P.S. I have finished both coats for the girls, and I hope to have photos of those, modelled by the girls themselves (instead of on Betty the dummy) in a week or two. In the mean time, I now have all I need to get cracking with the coat I’ve been promising to make for Mr W for over a year. Tomorrow, I start cutting out!!! Wish me luck…
Not your usual WIP today, because today is about tracing and toiling and fitting. I had a list of new patterns to trace for the girls, one pair of trousers, a blouse, sweatshirt, mini skirt, coat and sleeveless top. I’ve got them all traced from their Burda magazines and decided to start with toiling the trousers and the coat first. The coat is on both girls’ lists, and I’ve been wanting to make it since I saw it in the February Burda last year!
The trousers are 101 from December 2017. Daughter No2 fell for the shape and the ruffle on the hem. The fabric chosen to make them up is from the stash, some dark stretch denim left over from a pair of Birkin Flares that I made for myself. I traced the 36 & 38 and toiled the 36, graded to the 38 over the hip. When the toile was tried on though, it wasn’t necessary, so I pinned it out and adjusted the pattern accordingly.
What we did need to do though was add pockets!! You need pockets, just like ladies love them in their dresses, we love them in trousers! So I drew an outline of where it would need to be directly on the toile while daughter no2 was still in them. She decided the angle, width and depth of the pocket and I drew around her hand.
The other adjustment I needed to make was to take a horizontal dart out of the trousers below the bum.
The pockets are welt pockets on a slight angle. The welt is 1cm finished depth, the pocket opening is 12.5cm. The pocket lining will be cut from a thinner, cotton fabric while the bag will be from the denim, so you only see denim when the pocket is opened. I rather like this sort of pocket in trousers, it’s nice and neat.
So if you’re worried about welt pockets, here’s how I made these, after the trouser toile was already fully constructed, which is not really ideal!
Attach welt, 5mm seam allowance.
Pin pocket bag right side down to attachment line.
Sew exactly on the line, start and stop exactly in the corners.
Cut through the pants halfway between each sewing line, cutting triangles at the ends and ensuring to snip to, but not through, the stitching.
Turn pocket bag to the inside and press well, turn welt up and press seam allowance well.
Ensure the triangles are pushed to the inside as well.
Pin the pocket lining to the welt seam allowance.
Stitch from the trouser side so you can see your original stitch line and stitch on that line or only just off it.
Press well and close the pocket, either with pins or basting stitch.
Pin the pocket lining to the bag.
Stitch along stitch line.
Moving the trouser piece out of the way to reveal the triangles, welt and pocket pieces below, stitch across the triangle and secure well.
Sitch the pocket pieces together around the edge, ensure you secure the lower triangle and welt in the seam.
Pin the top and sides of the pocket to the top and sideseams of the trouser pieces.
Remove the pins and admire your new pocket!
I know a lot of people are scared of welt pockets, mostly because you have to cut through your fabric, and what if you’ve made a mistake!? The thing with these pockets is to be precise and careful. Make sure you mark very carefully the placement and or attachment lines onto the fabrics, using whichever method you prefer. The critical thing that I learnt was to be exact on the start and stop points, you have to mark those very clearly. It also helps to baste everything instead of relying on pins, because the fabric will still move. But they’re do-able! Practise on scrap fabrics until you’re more confident with your methods, but don’t avoid them, they look great!
Now I’m off to toile more patterns. I might even squeeze in another project for myself before the end of the month. I fancy a new shirt.
July’s Burda magazine was pretty good, I thought. There were a fair few patterns I marked as interesting to make, either for me or the girls. One that stood out immediately for me to make for myself, was the cropped, slightly flared trousers, 120. The only thing I didn’t want from the pattern was the pleated detail on the hip yoke pockets. It had similar details to the cropped trousers I’ve made heaps of so far, the rusty linen was the last pair.
I had some turquoise washed linen I’d got from one of the stands at the NEC in March that I decided was perfect. I had the right amount of fabric, which was a good start! I did make a toile, as I always do with trousers, I need to know just how much length to take out of the leg, and whether or not to grade out from the hip up to the waist so I can close the zip.
In the end I removed 4 cm from the length of the main pieces in order to get the knee line to line up with my knee, I left the lower trouser piece intact. I also graded out to what would have been a 46 at the waist, because I go straight up from the hip. The waistband pieces are straight, which is perhaps not ideal. I recut them so there’s a centre back seam, which helps with getting a better fit. Although, I have to say, looking at these photos, that I could probably do with making them a little shorter, about 2cm should do the trick. And I need to take them in a bit, they do look rather big in the thigh area, I’m sure I could loose a bit of fabric there easily.
The linen pair are great!! I made them in the first half of July, just after we got back from our Cornish break. The colour is almost a neutral, but has enough colour to stand above. The linen is a bit thicker than I’d really like for the sort of summer we’ve had this year. On the day I delivered the shirtdresses to daughter no2, I wore these trousers – that’s when I finally got those photos done. It was easily the hottest day of the year, it got up to 32C in Birmingham, and I thought I would melt. I’d also sat on a train for 45 minutes, then walked for another 10 in the heat. I was already uncomfortable way before taking photos! No matter, apart from that, they’ve been lovely. I had to make them a little tighter where I’d let the pattern out! The linen, of course, stretches with wear and they ended up hanging a little low, so I took 7.5mm out of the centre back and 1.5cm out of the side seams, necessitating the removal and re-insertion of the invisible zip.
Lovely enough to make another pair! Your remember I had some inky blue linen/cupro from Fabworks a couple of months ago (probably longer than I’m thinking). I’d expected a soft, floppy fabric, and got something with lustre and sheen (like a silk) and a lot more body. So it went on the backest of back burners while I decided what to do with them made something else. But then this pattern said, “give it a try”. The body of the fabric would hold the shape, and it’s thinner than the turquoise linen. I had two metres, so why not! Just a note, this particular colour has sold out, but they have other shades on a special offer… There’s also a post with information on how to care for this particular fibre partnership.
I stuck with the original enlargement, this stuff has NO STRETCH! It was the right call. They fit really nicely into the waist and do not fall down during the day, just right. Again, I left off the pleated detail, you’re really never going to see it anyway, and it’ll just make bulk under my tops. More bulk….
So I’m really happy with this pattern, I think it could easily be made in wool for wear with boots and tights in the autumn/winter, in fact, I rather thought this last pair would be slightly transitional. While we’ve certainly had the most amazing summer weather, just how long will it last now it’s August already??
I have another pattern to make quickly from the July Burda, top 117 looks interesting, and I think I’ll make it with one of the pieces of fabric I got from Seasalt. But I just need to finish a couple of tops on order from daughter no 2 first…
Making a good start on that long list of items for Daughter No 2, she’d identified a couple of pairs of trousers she really really wanted, and had allocated fabric from the stash! The tracing was done and when she came home for a week, I decided to get making, but with conditions…
She helped me in my allotment in the mornings (vitamin D and excercise) and then in the afternoon, we would sew together. She’d also made a pile of summer clothes that came out of the loft that needed attention. So we had our week’s worth of work laid out!
The first pair of trousers is 113 from Burda 08/2017. The fabric chosen to make them up came from ( I think) Ditto Fabrics, a good few years ago now. Daughter No 2 is slightly pear shaped, narrow waist and broader hips. There is usually a 2 size difference, so I traced the equivalent of the 38, going by her hip easurement. It’s a petite pattern, so I lengthened it: 1cm in the crotch depth, 1.5cm between the hip and knee and another 2cm between the knee and the hem. That should make it the right length for an “average” height person. Then I toiled and made the fitting adjustments on her to get the waist perfect. This was especially needed as the waistband doesn’t sit on the natural waist. But one thing didn’t quite work out. The length!!! The photo in the magazine clearly shows the model’s ankles and bottom part of her leg below the hem of the trousers, that was not happening with ours! You would expect Burdastyle to photograph the petite garments on petite models, yes?? I think they have used their standard height tall people here, there’s no other way to get the length they have, because even on shortening the pattern again (except for the crotch depth adjustment), it still wasn’t as short as on the model in the picture. And at 1.76cm tall, you cannot call Daughter No2 “average” height…
In the end we kept the length as it was originally traced, and narrowed the waist to just below the size 34. I took a bit out of the centre back to accomodate her posture, scooped out the crotch line and changed the shape of the curve – also a posture adjustment, and took in the inside seam, front seam by 1cm and back seam by 2, all tapering back to normal by the knee. I also added pockets! You need pocketses, so I drew up a pattern for inseam pockets, nice deep ones that ones phone won’t fall out of…
I really love the finished pants, the colour of the fabric is turquoise with very dark blue diamond shapes, it looks black, but it’s not! I like that Daughter No 2 is confident to change it up with different shoes, and tops. I hope they get lots of wear this summer! That was a May Burda Challenge project, but as it’s only been blogged now in June, I’m calling it for June instead!
I’m a bit behind on my blogging, I have two dresses and a pair of trousers completed, and a top almost there! But neither have been shown off yet….
I’ll start with the trousers. Looking through 8 years of Burda magazines for April, I found a lot of patterns I’d wanted to make way back then, but obviously never got round to. One of them is this pattern. It’s 139 from April 2011, in the plus size section. I traced the 44 and reduced the leg length by 4cm, remembering that the last time I lopped off 6cm that it was a trifle too much. I didn’t bother to toile, as the waistband is elasticated and there’ll be more than enough room (I know, not normally something I would go for).
The reason why I wanted to make these was purely because of the width of the leg and the detail at the hem, it’s nice to have something a little different. In hindsight, regarding the length, I should have gone the whole hog and chopped off 6cm. If I’m wearing these trousers with trainers or sandals with “platforms” or a wedge sole, I’m fine, but around the house in my bare feet they are too long and I keep standing on the buttons and elastic in the hem bands!
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The fabric I chose is the first of the pieces I got at the NEC to be used. I had hoped to start of that lot earlier, but never mind. As long as none of it lasts passed the summer, I’ll be happy. It’s not allowed to enter the stash! It’s a navy and white washed cotton and linen blend, and I cannot remember which stall it came from. I had 2m and it was just enough for this pattern with the width of the leg pieces, and the length… If I’d taken out those other 2 cm it would have been a more comfortable fit on the fabric, but no worries, it all worked out.
There are in seam pockets in the side seams, that fabulous pleated detail at the hem and a wide grown-on elastic waistband. I have to admit that these are super comfy, I have worn them three times already and only today managed to get blog photos! The linen is soft and floppy, just what I like. Please excuse the creases, I hadn’t got round to getting photos before we went out, so I’ve done a lot of sitting…
Putting them together was without incident, but keep an eye on the line drawing when it comes to asembling the hem bands and sewing on the buttons etc. The only thing I’d change is the elastic inthe hem bands. I can’t really figure out why it’s in there as the tab isn’t short enough to pull it up. I shortened the elastic in my hem bands so that there would be resistance and there would be gathering in the band when the tab was pulled to the end button.
I really like these trousers, and I can see another being made in the not too distant future. That’s another project done for April BurdaChallenge2018, I’m working on some Japanese inspired stuff this week, haven’t even looked at the May magazines yet!!