sewing plans – THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS

August Plans

Well, July went past in a bit of a blur! I’d had grand plans to whip up garments for #SewJapaneseInJuly, post some work in progress updates and show off the Burda trousers I finally made – but I did none of that! At this point I think I’ll not worry with the work in progress, but I’d love to show you the Burda trousers as they were a pattern I loved when I saw them in the magazine, but knew they’d need pockets and a zip transfer!

Anyway – it’s August now and I have new plans. First off… I have enough summer goodies in my wardrobe, so I’m not making anything more for me – unless it’s something that really grabs me and I have fabric!! I’ve dusted off my pattern cutting equipment and books and have started with drafting a trouser block for the other half. Why? He needs new shorts and doesn’t like anything in the shops and none of the patterns I have fit his requirements either. I tried with the Jedadiah shorts, but nope.

parkland_menswear_pattern_collection-14_78fbacb3-d3ee-440b-946c-1942984a306b — Jedediah shorts from Thread Theory website

As far as making for the other half goes, things haven’t been all that successful. I made a coat block 3-4 years ago and drafted a beautiful coat pattern, bought shell fabric and buttons, but I’m still looking for the “perfect” lining fabric, so that project is still on hold! I am hoping making shorts will be easier, I mean, chino fabric is not that hard to find, right? And it doesn’t need lining, thank goodness!!! The block toile fitted much better than I expected! I just needed to shorten the crotch depth by about 2cm and reduce the waist by 2cm too. I distributed that between the front side seam and back darts and it’s all good! I hontstly expected much more faff, so this is a relief!

Once the shorts are done, I want to make patterns for office trousers too, he lives in his jeans and one pair of black wool pants that have to suffice for meetings. Why only one pair? Because he’s a fussy begger who doesn’t like what’s in the shops so drags this one pair of pants out for every meeting. So I definitely want to make pants to his particular requirements. Then I guess it’ll have to be shirts and a jacket or two! But jackets mean lining and if the coat saga is anything to go by, jacket making could take a while! If you’re interested, the book I’m using is Patternmaking for Menswear, I bought this a long time ago now on one of my London trips, a chain bookstore there had loads of books I couldn’t get hold of in sleepy Warwickshire. Sadly it’s closed down now and I cannot remember the name!!

I’m quite looking forward to pattern cutting again – get those dusty brain cells up and running! Of course, making garments will always depend on finding the right fabric, so now I’m on the hunt for suppliers of good shirting fabrics. I’m sure my usual fabric suppliers will do good on the wool suiting and cotton twill for pants and shorts. Tomorrow I’m taking my machine in for a sercive and then I’m off to a tailoring supplier in Kenilworth, it’ll be good to see his stock in person rather than online. There’s also a little fabric shop on the high street that’s come up trumps for good wool in the past.

So – apart from the odd request from the girls, I’ll be making stuff for the other half this month! Oh – and toiling a pattern for a winter coat and raincoat for me. Just because my summer wardrobe is full doesn’t mean I don’t have room available in the winter one! And I need to use up scraps, so I’ve decided to make some pouches and little bags that I’ll sell later in the year as a fundraiser for an environmental charity. Them’s the plans!

What to make in June?

I can’t believe how wet and miserable May turned out to be this year! Going through my Me Made May photos for previous years reveals tees and viscose trousers, cropped linen pants and floaty outfits! This time – jeans, jumpers, long sleeves and trainers, one open shoes only twice! brrr

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I have done a bit of fabric shopping though, in preperation for June being much, much nicer than May! And if today is anything to go by, we’re in for a treat! (But I’m not hopping about madly just yet.) I bought what was described as olive and ecru leaf print viscose (turns out more green than olive) to make another Olya Shirt and a piece of olive cotton/linen blend for trousers to wear with the leaf print. I also caved and bought a RTW olive and ecru striped tee while on holiday! In St Ives I found the teeniest little wool and fabric shop on Fore St, and ended up buying a gorgeous chambray that will make the “denim” Teddy Designer Pants I’ve been wanting for ages and some natural coloured linen for maybe a pair of Kew Pants again. I do like that pattern.

Fix it on the left, make it on the right!

So – I have grey linen, natural linen and olive linen for pants, green and ecru viscose for a shirt and some blue and white striped jersey that’s definitely going to be a new Basic Instinct tee. I also want to use the remains of the tencel twill that made the daughters’ pjs – I think I can make short pj pants and a cami out of what’s left, just need to tetris the pieces a bit! I also want to make something with bits of left over linen in navy, white, rust and a blue/black and white print. But I’m not good a patchworking and colour blocking, so we’ll have to see how that pans out. Of course, now the weather has turned, the garden is calling louder than ever and the veggies all want planting out, so sewing time and planting time are in direct competition with each other!!!

Plans for a New Dress

I made the Assembly Line V-Neck dress in October last year, and thought it was the sort of dress I’d have more than one of. It’s also the sort of pattern you feel you have to make more than one of, due to the cost! This one’s not available as PDF. But until now, I only have that one. Things might change though. I’d bought some gorgeous, made in Scotland window pane wool in a reddish-brown colour from a little shop in Kenilworth in the summer, planning to make a pair of trousers and maybe a skirt (3m!!). Then after seeing the pleated cuff trousers in the August Burda, thought I’d make those. Now, I’m not so sure – and I have enough wool trousers for now. But a dress…

The photo of the fabric isn’t the best to show off the colour, and I never thought I’d actually wear a colour like this near my face, but recently I’ve got a yellow-mustard jumper, and a smoked paprika cord jacket – so I’m getting brave! Not just blue, grey & black anymore!!

Just an idea of the fabric, not the best representation of the colour!

Last year I made the large, without a FBA, based, of course, on my measurements at the time. In January of 2019, the #SewMySize hashtag was doing the rounds on Instagram, and I posted this picture,

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Joining in the conversation with #SewMySize. I'm often at the upper end of an Indie pattern size table, if not off it altogether.

A post shared by Anne W (@compulsive_seamstress) on Jan 26, 2019 at 9:36am PST

A change in lifestyle and a healthier eating plan meant an update of measurements was required in March.

And now I can update those measurements again!

Which means I need to trace a new size dress, or do I? I look very different in that dress now, and I prefer how it looks now I’m a little smaller. And, I rather like wearing it without the belt! I never thought that would happen! So I have some thinking to do, do I just go with the size I have, or go down? And should I line the wool? The blue dress isn’t lined, I like it light and a lining would have changed the way the fabric hung. Maybe a slip? Too many decisions right now, so I’m going back to toiling my jeans patterns!

Sewing Plans Progress

Sewing continues, I’ve been toiling and trying to use up scraps in equal measure. I’ve finally found a use for the patchwork of left over fabrics – large cushion covers for daughter no 2. I’ve also made a blue and rust cushion cover for myself, to use at the allotment. It used left over fabric from other projects and looks good a cheerful on my turquoise chairs! I need to get a photo for you!

As far as toiles go, the working toile of the trousers, 115 May 2019 has worked out well, no alterations needed. I do need to find a suitable fabric though, I don’t think there’s one in the stash.

On the other hand though, I have at least make one pair of trousers for the changing seasons – the Teddy Designer Pants have been remade for cooler weather in a lovely soft pale grey wool. I locked myself away in the sewing room for a whole day and just concentrated on making them, which was lovely. Even though the weather was good and I should have been out in the allotment.

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Contrast cotton pocket bags, reducing bulk in the #TeddyDesignerPants pocket. This is when I like having a box of scrap fabric! Almost finished now, just need to choose buttons, mage the buttonholes & sew the buttons on, and hand stich the lower edge on the inner waistband. Might take the handstitching to the allotment, sit in the sun and watch the bees! 🐝 . . #StyleArc #MakingTrousers #ScrapBusting #HandmadeWardrobe #SewingForAutumn #planning #iSew #Sewcialist #ShipstonSews #warwickshireSews

A post shared by Anne W (@compulsive_seamstress) on Aug 20, 2019 at 5:12am PDT

However – I was having such a good time sewing that I made a little booboo. I managed to fold the pleat on the front the wrong way! And this I only realised once I happily put them on to revel in my new trousers. So…. now they’re in the altering pile. How annoying!

On the good side though, Daughter No 2 loves the toile of the trousers 120 August 2019, and it looks like they need no alterations or adjustments whatsoever. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the same with Daughter No1. Not only did they not fit well, but they just didn’t suit her. Not the right style. I still have to toile 107, also from August 2019, the pattern is all traced and ready, but the allotment is a fickle place and doesn’t like the competition! 🙂

I have finished the two tops I had planned to make in jersey fabric, making a navy blue LB Pullover from a textured jersey I got from Rosenberg & Sons two years ago at the NEC, and a blue and beige(?) striped Uvita, fabric bought from a sewist who was destashing on Instagram. I need someone to be around to take photos of all these things, so for now all I have is a selfie…

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Sewing is progressing well, I have a new #LBPullover, & Peggy is wearing my latest #UvitaTop. Now it's time to sew the two tops I cut out on Sunday for Daughter no 2. . . #isew #Sewcialist #StashBusting #HandmadeWardrobe #RainyDaySewing

A post shared by Anne W (@compulsive_seamstress) on Aug 14, 2019 at 5:08am PDT

Daughter No 2 has been the recipient of a new blouse, again, I’ve no photos of her in it yet, but she’s assured me that she likes it, but maybe next time make it a little shorter. The top in question is 120 from June 2019, made in Liberty Lawn from the stash. Yay for stashbusting! The mint buttons are from the button stash too.

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A quick look at daughter no 2's latest blouse. This is #120burda062019 in #LibertyLawn. It'll look better on her than it does on Betty! . . #isew #BurdaStyle #Sewcialist #HandmadeWardrobe #MakeYourStash #SewingAddict #Sewing #SewingForSummer #SewistsOfInstagram #Maker #diyFashion #ShipstonSews #warwickshireSews

A post shared by Anne W (@compulsive_seamstress) on Aug 18, 2019 at 11:46pm PDT

Daughters No 1’s vintage 80s vogue patterns have arrived and are partway through the toiling process, so now it’s wait and find out time. I really hope they they work out, the pink worsted wool I have in mind for the “cross dressing women” pattern is just devine! But first, I have to plant late potatoes to have some to harvest in time for Christmas, get the vegetable allotment ready for autumn sowings of broad beans & peas, and get ready to plant shallots, onions and garlic to overwinter! And continue, in the meantime, to harvest and find interesting ways to eat rather a lot of courgettes….

Big, bumblebees on the globe thistle in the cutting garden

My first ever pepper! On the vegetable plot.

The Case of The Cross-Dressing Women

Or 1980s power dressing to anyone who was alive and kicking in that era! So, I’ve shown Daughter No 1 the patterns and ideas of trousers to make, based on her Pinterest board, and lets just say I didn’t get it quite right. Sort of on the right track, but not nearly dramatic enough for her! Our modern tastes aren’t “statementy” enough. After looking again and a rather long telephone call later, I realised she was after an older look, so I showed her a couple of 90’s patterns, which got a warmer reception than the modern Burda ones, then I found this in my pattern stash!

There were lots of “the right noises” going on, on both sides of the phone, thank heavens for WhatsApp! The penny had dropped on my end, she wanted 80s stuff! High waisted, lots of pleats and fabric around the hip area, and turn-ups! She wanted the waist and hips emphasised, and modern patterns don’t really do that. So she’s pronounced the pattern with the “cross-dressing women” (her words) to be perfect. Well, who’d have thought it?! She wasn’t even around when that pattern came out – in fact, I was only 15… And I think even I would have thought twice about those pants! However, now I need to get on and toile. I have the size 14, the pattern is a single size, so I need to grade down a size and probably take it in more on the waist. They’ll also need to be shortened, by quite a bit, I think!

Then I had a little look on Etsy to see what else was out there that I could use…

vogue 2027 — 1988 Vogue Individualist 2027

I love this pattern! I know, it’s a little nuts, but the trousers are spot on, and I think that jacket is just wicked! Showing my age much?? It’s not one I would wear though, my boobs do not need gathered pouches to accentuate them in, but for someone with a tiny waist, this is great! So I’ve taken a chance and bought it. I have to wait for it to come from Canada, but I have time. First that Vogue pattern of mine needs work, and of course, there’s a long list of make for myself and make for younger daughter that never ends! 🙂

October Sewing Plans

Oh boy, I can’t believe how quickly this half of the year is going already! I swear the first half of the year was much slower. I thought I had loads of time to think about my Autumn and Winter sewing, plenty of time to make coats and jackets and waterproof warm things before the weather changed. No so. So what have I been dreaming of then?

Well, I had hoped to finally make and finish the coat I started for Mr W in November last year. I am pretty determined that it will be finished by his birthday at the end of this month, so I need to get cracking. I also need a new coat myself. And I have some planned for the girls! Not only do I need to make coats, but I need some new tops for the winter, having make a whole load of new tops for the summer.

Coat fabric I have, the stash is coming up trumps in this department! I have some coppery pink twill that I bought earlier in the year to make two versions of the long coat from February 2017 Burda. I’ll make them different from each other by adding a different lining, using different buttons and possibly adding piping or something. I have managed to get a fitting for Daughter No2’s coat, it fits pretty well but needs the sleeves lengthened by 4cm, the overall length needs to be 4cm longer and I’ll need to widen the shoulders. Daughter No1 will try on her toile this weekend.

Then for me, I’m undecided. I have some camel coloured casmere that I had thought of using for the Bamboo from Waffle Patterns, but I wonder if the pattern is too straight up and down for me. Then I browsed this month’s Burda magazine and saw the jacket 110. I like it! But I also like the peacoat in the plus size section of the September Burda. I’ll have to toss a coin I think!

collage jacket patterns — Peacoat 127 & jacket/coat 110

Then there are tops. There are two that really tick the boxes for me that I’d love to make this month, top 103 is from August 2018 Burda. I liked the working drawings when I first got the magazine, but still haven’t managed to trace the pattern. Again, the stash will come to the rescue here, I have a piece of viscose that’s been trying to be used for ages now, and I think it’ll be great as this top. Then in this month’s Burda, there’s an interesting top/blouse, 112. The insert is what caught my attention, and again, I have just the right piece of black and white print viscose in the stash!

Of course, there are still items to make for the girls, Daughter No2 has her eye on these elastic waistband pants from September 2018 and the sweatshirt 108, which is on my list too.

For myself, I still want to make a pair of Burnside Bibs. They were on the list from last month, and still need to be toiled. Then there’s the Monthly Stitch’s Indie Pattern Month this month! I left it too late to decide what I was going to try to do, so I might get a chance to enter the second week’s challenge, and the third. But it will definitely depend on TIME! I think this is going to be another busy sewing month! What are you sewing this month?

On My Sewing Table

Or, sewing plans interrupted and replaced with new, more exciting plans! At the beginning of March I made a list of the project I wanted to get through this month, using my free calendar/planner. Of the 7 planned projects I’ve done 2 & 2 are half way. But I’m not excited by them, they are just jobs to do. So I’ve got a new list!

Item one, the one that’s actually cut and in progress. I’ve wanted to make this top for a while and this weekend realised I already had the perfect fabric! The pattern is 105 from Burda magazine 2/2016. The fabric is silk satin and I’ve never seen anything quite like it before or since !

Item two is another top, this one from the original list, one of the half done projects because it’s been toiled and is ready to go. It’s Lekala 4286 & will be made in a 70s polyester floral print with the biggest, brightest print ever!

Item three is another Burda top, a pattern I’ve used before and really like. The fabric is cotton voile from Fabric Godmother about two years ago. Pattern is #138 8/2011.

Items four, five and six are culottes #104 2/2017! Following the success of the previous pair I found two pieces of fabric for daughter no1 and one for me!😇

Item seven uses this beautiful blue viscose I bought in Derby I think five years or so ago, time flies!! I’m making another Burda pattern, top #115B 8/2015, which is another that’s been on my list for a while.

And last, but by no means least, item eight is another top, another Burda pattern. This time it’s #103 from 2/2016, using a really pretty bit of white broiderie anglaise that’s got a silver finish and grey jersey from the Fancy Silk Store in Birmingham.
So, enough to keep me busy for the next ten days?? 😉 Do you throw out your plans when things don’t really excite you enough to provide motivation to get them done? Or are you a good planner?