Tuxedo Bellatrix

Bellatrix Blazer - the tuxedo version
Bellatrix Blazer – the tuxedo version

Another Bellatrix Blazer finished!  What a shame Papercut Patterns aren’t participating in this month’s Sewing Indie Challenge, hosted all over, because I’d be entering this little number – for sure!

I’d almost finished it in the last post, it was just lacking a front facing & upper collar piece which I was going to cut from a black cotton stretch satin.  Before committing to the order online though, I had a quick rummage through my silks & satins stash box and I found a piece of black stretch satin – not strictly cotton either, but who cares!  By using this piece I tick off another stashbusting box and I get to finish the jacket over the weekend – bonus.

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I really do love the contrast of solid black on the collar, none of the other versions have contrasts on the outsides (insides are a different matter altogether!) so this makes it a little different.  The peplum pieces are all cut on the cross (weft) grain so the stripes are perpendicular to the rest of the jacket, this also means they have no stretch..  no matter, across the back the is great movement which is supported on the inside with a stretch lining.

Left: canvas interfacing to support under collar, top right: interfacing supporting the upper back & armholes, bottom right: pinning a seam for a perfect intersection
Left: canvas interfacing to support under collar, top right: interfacing supporting the upper back & armholes, bottom right: pinning a seam for a perfect intersection

I don’t like stretch linings, they feel funny but they do do a good job on a project like this.  As usual, the project went together really well, I used fusible canvas on the undercollar to give extra support, and used a lightweight fusible on the remaining pieces.  Now Daughter No2 just needs to decide what to wear it with when she goes to school next!

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Next I’ll show off the dress I cut at the same time as the jacket, yes, Daughter No1 came home quickly this long weekend & tried it on.  Thankfully it fits beautifully – and she loves it!  The boyfriend was suitable appreciative too…  😉

 

Le Bellatrix Blazer français

Le Bellatrix Blazer français
Le Bellatrix Blazer français

Well, it’s done!  I am a little slow in posting this project here – trying to make some progress with other projects too!  I had all the pieces for this “proper” Bellatrix Blazer, bar the lining, cut & marked on Sunday afternoon, & interfaced just before Sherlock started on Sunday evening.  That’s what you saw in the previous post.  So around 10:30am-ish on Monday morning, I got stuck in.  A stray thought went through my head:  “I wonder if I can finish this whole thing today, so Daughter No2 can wear it to school tomorrow…?”  Nothing like a little challenge!  🙂

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In the cutting out process I cut the facing fronts, which form the upper collar, 3mm wider along that front edge.  I wanted to use a tailoring technique that helps to ensure the seam stays underneath.  I did the same on the lower edges of the “peplum” pieces & the front edge.  It really did help, as well as a lot of steam & flattening with my clapper!  I also lengthened the shoulder seam by 2cm & the sleeve is 6cm longer.  I cut the back lining piece with a 2cm pleat in the centre, this to enable movement, but otherwise kept everything else as standard.  I even stayed with the bagged lining instruction!

DSC06967This really is an easy pattern to make.  The pockets are in-seam & the instructions are so plain & simple, a novice should be able to follow them with no problem!  I found no problems, apart from the front sleevehead:armhole ratio.  There is more armhole than sleeve!  I must alter this on my traced pattern, but for now I managed to ease it all in & it doesn’t look like there was a problem.

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I need a bit more pressing on that front edge!

We are on the lookout for a buckle or something for the front closure, we sort of decided we’d like an edge to edge closure, rather than a button.  For now though, she’s happy to wear it as it is, & her friends have been suitably impressed with it!  It got its first outing to school on Tuesday morning & in double French the teacher was most impressed with the fabric choice!  I’ve shown the pattern & a suitable piece of fabric to Daughter No1 too, fingers crossed she likes the combination & I can make another!

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In Jungle news, I spent many fruitless hours searching for my bodice block & toiles from last year, finally located them, only to realise I’d eaten too much over Christmas (and any other time in between) & needed to re-draft anyway!  Grrr.  So that’s what I did yesterday, & I’m intending to move along with adding the style lines & creating my puuuurfect jungle blouse.

A very pleased youngster with 2 new jackets in 3 days!
A very pleased youngster with 2 new jackets in 3 days!

How are your jungle plans?  And have you taken advantage of the special offer at Raquel Gonzalez‘ Etsy store?  You only have until this Monday to get 15%off a purchase over $50, and free shipping, so get cracking!  Use the code:  NewYearNewPurse when you check out.