coat – THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS

Don’t buy it, I’ll make it

This adventure all started back at the end of January when daughter no 2 sent me dozens of links to oversized, long, black winter coats. She wanted my opinion on the best one for her to buy, but I had a problem. They were “Debenhams” – just Boohoo in disguise. I really don’t want to support the sort of business that is Boohoo, so I offered to make her a coat instead. Unsurprisingly she wasn’t too keen initially – I have form in offering to make something and then taking aaaaaaaaages to get it done. So this time I thought : “challenge accepted!”

While we were still talking on the phone, I was googling suitable patterns and fabrics and sending her links to choose from. The two front runners for pattern were the Fibre Mood Hunter coat and an offering from Viki Sews, the Martina Coat. The Martina won because it was less structured and had a less formal look. I know there are people who, in the current climate with Ukraine, wouldn’t buy a pattern from a Russian company and I did have my doubts, but there was no other pattern she found to be as suitable. We got the pattern on sale on the company’s Etsy store, so at least I can say the Russian government isn’t getting very much in tax income from this one pattern!

The pattern called for 3.3m of fabric for her size, which is the 36-3. The 3 indicates height. Daughter no 2 ordered the exact amount of black viscose “wool” from a large online fabric company (who I don’t usually buy from) and it was on the button! I had black on black paisley lining in my stash, as well as black cotton pocketing, so all I still needed to source were snaps. These I got in a little haberdashery in London.

As I was up against the clock with this, I didn’t toile. I had asked her to check the finished length of the coat and the sleeve length when purchasing the pattern, but because it has so much ease I wasn’t too concerned with “perfect fit”. This coat doesn’t have the amount of interfacing and structure I’m used to putting into an overgarment. It relies a lot on the use of Vilene bias tape, which I was lucky enough to have a little stash of.

The instructions for the Viki Sews patterns are comprehensive and sit alongside photographs of each step. I really like how they did the back vent, you get a fabulous finish with their instructions. I only deviated when it came to the lining – I don’t like bagging coats and jackets, so handstitched the hem of the coat and sleeves in place before hand stitching the lining to it.

The fabric was really nice to work with, given that it wasn’t real wool! We ordered a sample of it before purchasing, the website describes it as medium to heavyweight, but I’d say it’s more medium than heavy. It was perfect for this project though, a heavier fabric wouldn’t look as good and I feel that for the £12.99/m price tag, we did well. The black colour is nice and deep and it’s really soft. It pressed well and stayed put when I wanted it to. This was helpful for making the welt pocket! Daughter no 2 is happy with the pockets especially, they’re deep enough to hold a phone comfortably and not let anything fall out when you sit down.

Once the fabric and pattern had arrived and were prepped, it didn’t take me long to make this coat, just three days once it was cut out. I was happy to get it done quickly and she was equally happy to get it that fast! She’s worn it pretty much every day since getting it (hand delivered in the first half of February), so that’s good to know!

Mother’s Day Coat

I’ve finally made it!! I honestly cannot remember when I got the fabric for this coat, but it was a good few years back, for Mother’s Day. I’d seen it on the Fabrics Galore website and hinted to the girls that if they were looking for a present but hadn’t found anything yet…. Naturally the hint worked, and the fabric duly arrived. I had an idea of what I wanted, a coat with a simple shape without too much detail, to show off the woven pattern in the fabric. Eventually I saw Stephanie’s coat, and then other versions appeared, and I knew this was the one, Burda 6772, now out of print.

D72958A0-3B31-4186-9F8E-10B2D6BE8E06 — Burdastyle Coat 6772

I’ve been meaning to get the coat made ever since buying the pattern, but for some reason spring and summer pass by in a flash and I never get round to it! Last year I decided it was my “year of coats” and added it to the list. I made 2 and a quarter of the coats on the list before everything changed and the world turned upside down. So here we are again, a new year and another Spring season. But this time it’s different, this time I have my Spring coat! Made from Mother’s Day fabric, in time to wear for Mother’s Day!

I decided on version A, but to keep it simple, eliminated the belt and belt loops. And because I want to have warm arms in Spring, used the full length sleeves of version B. At first I thought of a contrasting colour for the lining, but reminded myself that I was supposed to be keeping things simple, so kept it blue!

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I made a toile of the bodice to check for fit across the bust and decided to make an adjustment in the bust area for depth, but not width. This increased the size of the bust dart which had an impact on the stripe matching later. I also shortened the upper bodice and sleeve depth by a centimetre, and made a small full bicep adjustment to the two piece sleeves. The shoulders were also narrowed by a centimetre, which doesn’t sound like much, but it moves the armhole into the right position. A second toile proved I’d got the kinks out, and once the skirt was pinned on to the front and folded up a lot, I had the overall issues sorted! The skirt was shortened by 8cm in the end! I definitely think I’ve got the right length.

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The coat is interfaced with speed tailoring interfacing, a mixture of a fine sheer fo the facings, and a woven weft insertion for the back stay, sleeve heads and the t-piece in the front. The hems of the skirt piece and sleeves are interfaced with weft insertion interfacing cut on the bias. I also made a chest plastron from canvas and used some of the same in the collar stand for more rigidity. Shoulder pads complete the structure.

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Lining is a pretty blue viscose lining from Fabworks, I ordered a metre which was enough for the main, and used grey and white striped lining from the stash for the sleeves. Buttons were from the stash too! I love it when I don’t need to go button shopping, because, lets face it – I have enough buttons. I managed to get the stripes to match up in most places, but I obviously wasn’t as careful as I would have liked! In some areas they are out, and there’s just nothing I can do about it now. I guess that means my head wasn’t quite as focused on the job as I would have liked. With the sleeve, I decided to match the pattern from the armhole down, rather that try to match in across the front and back. This is because of the bodice dart affecting the stripe placement.

mum coat 6 — Destashed buttons for the win!

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I think I might be getting to the stage when I can say, I have enough coats too! Never thought I’d be saying that!! I just have two more on the list I really want to get made, one being a waterproof that I want this summer. I bought navy oilskin from Merchant and Mills in 2016 and it’s still on the roll in the corner of my sewing room! I also want to make a peacoat from fabric I’ve had for more than 10 years… I have the lining – silk Liberty, and the pattern is traced and ready to toile. One day!

Work in Progress Wednesday 2/2021

In amongst all the quick fix projects and, of course, the Sewing Japanese in January, I have started work on a coat pattern. This particular coat pattern has been in the making queue for some time, at least 5 years! Every spring I commit to getting it made, and every autumn I put the fabric back in the cupboard, because I haven’t got round to it. But not this year. I have the pattern, and I have actually cut it out!!! Mind you only the pattern – let’s not get carried away! I’ve checked the measurements of the pattern against my measurements and have been looking at what adjustments will be needed.

So, what am I going to make? I have a length of blue and white cotton jacquard that the girls bought me for Mother’s Day ages ago, I just fell in love with it. Then, in 2016 I saw a coat that Stephanie from Sea of Teal had just made, and it all clicked! That was the pattern I wanted for the fabric! A spring/summer coat, perfect. The pattern is Burda 6772, unfortunately it doesn’t look like you can buy it anywhere at the moment!

According to measurements, I’ll be making the 44 with a small FBA and narrowing the shoulders. I might technically get away without an FBA, will need to toile the pattern as is before deciding. There is a hitch though, this pattern has a sidebody. Princess seams result in a side front, this has been attached to the side back as one piece, so you have centre back, side piece and centre front. I’ve not done an FBA with a sidebody before, so this could be interesting….

So, according to those measurements, I’d need to add 4cm of ease across the bust, 2cm at the waist but nothing on the hip. If I start by toiling the 44 as is, I know the bust will fit, but it will be too big across the shoulders and upper chest. I’ll have to figure out which way will work better for me. I guess that means it’s time to dig out the scrap fabric and start sewing. See you on the other side, but first, I have admin to finish so the toiling will have to wait for the weekend.

Silver & Gold

I’ve finished my new coat, and I’m seriously in love!! Now that it’s all finished, I can’t believe I’ve taken so long to make this pattern, it’s wonderful! I bought the Pepernoot Coat pattern from Waffle Patterns when it first came out – which is some years ago now – and really, I could have had a few in my wardrobe by now. I think an unlined denim version, made from old jeans would have been fabulous for the summer here in the UK! (Might have to make that happen…)

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So, you’ve seen most of the Work in Progress, and gone through the adjustments I’ve made already, so this is just to finish off and show off! As said already, the fabric is cashmere, originally from Truro Fabrics. I eventually chose the mustard gold lining from The Lining Company for the inside, and it was the perfect choice! I ended up cutting it on the cross grain to get the richness of the gold colour, the straight grain was just a bit too “meh” for what I was after!

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Now, let’s talk pockets… This pattern comes with a very cool, large pair of pockets on the front skirt of the coat. They’re supposed to have a zippered opening/closing, but I left that out. I’m not a big fan of scratchy zips on my hands, especially in the wintertime! So I knew I was going to make welts, and having decided to copy the welts on my Seasalt coat, I can say that it’s worked better than I could have hoped for. The overlapping welts “hug” your wrist once your hand is in the pocket, not letting any draft in there! Warm, snuggly pockets! Can you get any better?

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I sewed the inner hood pieces with the “wrong” side of the fabric out – it’s a lighter shade of grey to the outside and I like the contrast. Mr W thinks I should have cut the facings the same way round, but I disagree. I like it this way! And the hood is just right, big enough to go fully over your head without flopping over your eyes, like some I know… I’ve worn this coat loads since finishing it, it’s just so comfortable and the fabric so soft!

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So there you have it, this is officially my new favourite coat, until I make another! The adjustments I’ve made were simple ones, a small FBA sorted the front out to hang straight, and I added a small amount to the seam allowance of the armhole in the front to stop the dragging there, and inserted decent tailor’s felt shoulder pads. Without the shoulder pads the armhole was just too deep. The minute I put the pads in, the whole thing looked and felt a whole lot better. I love how this feels on, it’s just great to wear.

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Windowpane Sienna Maker Jacket

Oh, I’ve been having fun with the coats! This is the second of the year, and boy are there more to come! Today is the chance of the Sienna Maker Jacket from Closet Case Patterns. I rather liked the pattern when it first came out, but didn’t buy it immediately. I thought about it for a while first, and when I saw the perfect fabric at Fabworks at the end of November, I knew I needed to put the two together.

sienna maker jacket cc

I bought 3m of black windowpane wool (sold out now) and the PDF pattern and sent it off to the other half for printing. To check for shrinkage and finish change, I cut a 10cm square of the fabric and threw it in the washing machine with some other woolies. No shrinking and it actually felt less pricky and rough than before it went it! So in went the three metres. But then it sat around a while, Xmas was in the way and I wasn’t quite ready.

But move into January and I traced the pattern, toiled and made a small FBA adjustment, also increasing the length of the belt. I only needed 2cm of length in the bust depth, the width was fine. Now the pattern is ready, but I wanted to line at least part of the coat. I’d chosen the longer length, view A. The proportions are nicer than view B, and as I’m making a wool coat, it might as well keep as much of me warm and wind free as possible! But the wool wasn’t completely itch-free so I definitely wanted something more between me and the fabric. Not to mention that any garment pushed into a wool fabric sleeve will end up bunched under my armpit – and that’s just uncomfortable!

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So I decided on a half lining, with sleeves, and to bind all the remaining seams and raw edges with bias binding – Hong Kong finish. I bought a couple of metres of mustard gold coloured polycotton from a local fabric store to use for the bias and raided the lining bag for something suitable for the half lining. I had just enough to cut the pieces for the back and front lining from the chopped up remains of the Pepernoot Coat, but there was no way I’d get the sleeves out of that same stuff. But I did have some striped sleeve lining….

collage windowpane coat 2

So – now I’m ready! I interfaced facings and upper collar with a fine sheer fusible, and the coat front T-zone, sleeve heads, across the shoulders in the back, hems, and undercollar with a weft insertion fusible. I also made a canvas chest piece, inserted shoulder pads and bound all the seams and hem. The stripes lined up perfectly – because I cut out one piece at a time and laid that piece right sides down on the fabric, lining up all the stripes, before cutting the second pattern piece. I discovered that the D-rings in my stash were bought for handbag making and were far too small for the belt. Not willing to buy anything, or to spend time waiting for an online purchase to turn up, I dug through the box of vintage belt buckles and found a black one that the belt fitted through just perfectly!

windowpane 2

I made a couple of changes to the finished garment though. First was to alter the side that the belt buckles on – the fronts overlap right over left, not left over right, on my coat. I’d tried the way it was designed in the toile and it just didn’t feel right, so I switched it. The two big pockets are enough for me so I eliminated the inside pocket and the breast pocket. I also changed the way the hem meets the back vent and the front facing. Although I have to admit that was a “work in progress” alteration, rather than one that was planned from the start.

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I think if you’re using a twill or similar, that the finish as described in the instructions would be just fine, but it wasn’t right for this. So I made the hem 1cm deeper and sewed the bottom edge of the facing to that of the coat front and turned it through the usual way. I also did not double turn the hems, but rather interfaced them so the interfacing did not stick out above the hem, and bound the edges. Similarly, at the back vent, there should have just been a fold of vent and the hem double turned. Instead the raw edges were bound and I folded an uneven mitre in the corners, meeting the bound edges. And it looks good!!

collage windowpane coat 1

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The hem was handsewn in place twice. I used Herringbone stitch which is nice and strong. Even if it were to get caught and snap, the rest of the stitching wouldn’t come out, so no droopy hem. The first row was stitched about 1.5cm below the bound hem edge, and the second was along the inside edge of the binding. I did a similar thing with the front facings, using Herringbone stitch and stitching two rows vertically through the interfacing to keep the facing attached to the front pieces and preventing them from flapping about. This step is done on the machine in the instructions, but I didn’t want that sort of look.

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The finished coat is rather yummy. Lining has definitely made it more wearable, I love the pop of mustard against the black. I made the size 12 based on measurements. The pattern overall, apart from the small amount of fabric needed in the bust depth, fitted “straight of the envelope”. The finished length is perfect, even for shorty me, and the sleeves finish in the right place too. I think this coat will be the perfect addition to my wardrobe, and should make it into that transitional spring/autumn season rather well too.

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I just have one question. If I don’t want to wear the coat all belted up, what do I do with the belt?? It ends up looking like a tail. I’ve tried stuffing it into a pocket, but even though they’re nice and roomy, it doesn’t work – too bulky. Tying it back on itself and looping through the buckle the other way doesn’t look right either, it pulls the facings back and open. It calls for experimentation I think. Anyway, I have the shorter, view C version of this jacket traced too, I feel I might need a summer jacket.

Work in Progress Wednesday

I hadn’t thought I’d have a post for today, thought I’d have finished off my epic two-coat run. But nope, I’ve been a little slow this week! So here’s what I’ve been working on for the last 2 weeks, two versions of the coat 103 from February Burda 2017.

The fabric is a pinky-copper coloured cotton twill that I bought either from Croft Mill or Fabworks earlier in the year. I bought 5m because I liked the colour so much, and it was only £5/m! I figured I could dye it if certain people didn’t like it, so I was quids in. Turns out both girls liked the colour and then they both wanted the same pattern made up with it! I needed to do something to make them a little different from each other, but I think the chances of them wearing the coats at the same time together are pretty slim.

I have done the usual interfacing, using Gill Arnold’s weft insertion the the t-panel, sleeve heads, upper back and under collar. I used the polyester fine sheer fusible for the facing pieces, tabs and upper collar. I altered the pattern pieces too. First, the non-fitting changes. I traced the collar to make one whole piece and added width of 2-3mm to the short sides and outer edge to accommodate turn of cloth. The under collar had its grainline changed to the bias, but stayed the same size. I also added 2-3mm to the revers on the facing pieces, tapering down to the original stitching line at the breakpoint. The front piece had 2mm added to the front from the breakpoint to the bottom. This all helps to roll the upper layer of fabric to the underside so you don’t see the seamline.

Fitting adjustments were relatively simple. Both girls wanted it longer, so I added 4cm to the skirt length. Daughter No1 needed a forward shoulder adjustment of 1cm, so that was pretty simple. Her coat was made first! Daughter No2 needed the sleeves 4cm longer, a broad shoulder adjustment of 1.5cm and the belt tabs needed to be lengthened by 1.5cm. As this needed more cutting up, her coat was made last.

This pattern wasn’t supposed to be lined, the raw edges are treated with Hong Kong finish, but we wanted something nice on the inside, so the hunt was on for nice linings. Printed “proper” linings are expensive, so we went off-piste. Daughter No1 has a William Morris inspired cotton poplin lining in her coat. The large print looks great peaking out, and I know she’s going to love it! The sleeves have a white and grey stripe “proper” liningso that her clothes aren’t bunched up in her armpit when she puts the coat on! I still have to find/choose buttons for this coat, otherwise it would have been finished early last week! The colour of the fabric makes it tricky to find the right stuff, and having no haberdashery shops within a 15 mile radius doesn’t help. I raided the charity shops in town on Monday and found buttons with potential, but we’re not sure…

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I've been raiding the button boxes on the local charity shops for buttons for the girls' new coats. I hope these have potential! . . #buttons #vintagebuttons #burdachallenge2018 #handmadewardrobe #sewistsofinstagram #isew #unselfishsewing

A post shared by Anne W (@compulsive_seamstress) on Nov 5, 2018 at 3:46am PST

Daughter No2 has a viscose print for her lining. I had originally thought of a geometric monochrome print, in pale grey or dusky blue, but she found the perfect stuff at the rag market in Birmingham for only £2/m! The gold/beige tones in the paisley print work well with the copper tone of the shell fabric, so it works, despite the blue paisleys! I found enough dark blue “proper” lining in my lining bag to use for the sleeves. This coat does have buttons!

Pink mother-of-pearl buttons from the stash

In my charity shop raid I found 3 vintage plum coloured buttons to use of the front of the coat, they go on the belt tabs and to close the coat in the front. I had to use different buttons for the sleevetabs, and had lovely dark pink mother-of-pearl shell buttons for that. I tried just about every type of button from the stash for these coats, and nothing worked. What’s the point of a large, full button box if nothing is right when you need it??!

So today I need to make up the lining for the second coat and get it in, then finish off the buttons. And maybe I’ll find something that works for the first coat too. Fingers crossed it’s all done today, I’m really keen on making a nice snuggly Toaster Sweater for myself, and there’s a pair of trousers in this month’s Burda I fancy too!

The best buttons so far, but are they too big? Too bland?

First Coat of the Season

camel coat 11

We have had a real change in the weather this week! Suddenly the wind is coming from the North and winter is snapping at our heels. Thankfully I have a nice toasty warm new coat to wear – with a hood to keep that wind out of my ears. I shared the making of the coat in a couple of Work in Progress Wednesday posts at the beginning of the month here & here. Now here’s the finished article.

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The pattern is “jacket” 110 from October 2018 Burda. I traced the 44 and added a 3cm FBA. In hindsight, I didn’t need to add that much and would definitely have been ok with just half of that. The fabric is camel/beige wool melton that is rather thick, and once seamed and enclosed, is very bulky! But, it is warm! The zip came out of the stash, and is also possibly a bit wider in the teeth area than a metal zip. This means that, although I laid the front band on the placement line, it’s not quite wide enough to finish at the right point on the other side. This means the snaps had to be reduced in size and the buttons don’t line up at the top. But I’m not taking that band off!! Far too much bulk.

camel coat 2

The buttons on the front band are vintage military brass buttons. I had hoped to use these on the back band as well, but could only find two! So the front benefits from these and I used vintage leather buttons on the back band instead. Because you’ll never see the two together, I think I’ve got away with it.

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The pockets are a great size, I used lining for the underside of the pocket flaps and for one side of the pocket bag, the other side is a scrap piece of cotton poplin Liberty fabric.

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I am really glad I have this new coat, a more casual offering than my “old” coat. The pattern and instructions are pretty straightforward. If I make this again, there are a couple of things I’d change. My neck is too short (& my double chin doesn’t help) for the collar, so I’ll not be buttoning that shut. However, I usually wear a nice scarf in the winter, so that will fill the gap left by not zipping to the top. I will also revisit that FBA. I don’t need all that width afterall. The hood is great, nice and roomy, but it tends to slip a little too far forward. This means you could be in trouble when crossing roads if you aren’t looking properly! It just needs a little tightening up around the edges.

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But I would like to make it again, in a less bulky fabric!

Work in Progress Wednesday

So much has been going on this week! I finished my coat on Sunday, I have some photos to edit and the post to finish before you can see it all, but it’s so nice and warm! It’s just what I needed.

One of the projects I really want to finish this month is Hubby’s coat. The main pattern pieces were drafted last November, adjustments made and pattern altered. But we were no nearer finding the right sort of lining, so the whole thing stalled. I think I have finally persuaded the other half to accept a plain lining, with a patterned piping strip and other internal details for this version. I can make another coat, or even a jacket (one day) when we find and buy that elusive “perfect lining”.

The pieces of pattern that still needed to be sorted were the linings, front and back facings and pocket pieces for both the internal pocket and the welt pocket at the waist. Somehow I’d only drawn up the pieces for the chest welt pocket. So now everything is ready, no excuses! Except that we still have no lining…

For now. I have ordered samples of The Lining Company’s shot twill lining that have already arrived (one day service, I love it!). The linings are plain as in they have no pattern, but at least with the two tone colours there’s interest. I found some leftover silk in the silk box that would work perfectly for the contrast piping and other bits on the inside of the coat, and will work with 4 of the 5 samples I’ve ordered. I also ordered a stripe lining sample from Fabric Godmother that’s still to arrive. It should also work with 4 of the linings, if not all, should Hubby decide he doesn’t like the silk I’ve looked out.

Charcoal wool, circle print silk for piping and a selection of shot linings.

I’m reluctant to cut the wool until I know I have everything I need, so while I wait for that last sample and we agree on colours and patterns, I have time to make something else! Not one to sit on my laurels, I decided I’d run up a toile of The Assembly Line’s new pattern, the V-Neck Dress. I liked the look of the dress the minute I saw it on IG at the launch.

I thought it would be perfect for Indie Pattern Month over on The Monthly Stitch. It hadn’t arrived in time for me to make for Week 1, dresses, but I figured I’d be able to squeeze it in by the time Week 3 came around. This week is “Around the World”,which means you have to make a pattern form a designer from a different country to that in which you live. The Assembly Line are Swedish, so that’s perfect!

The pattern is multi-sized and I decided to go with the Large, based on measurements and finished garment measurements. Technically I should have done an FBA, on that size, but the measurements gave me enough width/ease to be comfortable. I didn’t want it too big. The toile went perfectly, I only did the main pieces. I realised the skirt was a little too long, so I took 4cm out of the length. The depth of the V bothered me a bit, I don’t usually go for something this low, but I told myself I was being a fuddy duddy – get on with it!! And the bust seemed fine, there were no drag lines and there was definitely enough ease. Done!!

The dress is actually made now, but I’m not going to give it away just yet, I am going to enter that competition now! See you on the other side!

Work in Progress Wednesday

Coat update! Last time you saw it, it was all in pieces. I’d done the interfacing and needed to tailortack and then get cracking! So that was Thursday morning’s position. By the end of the day I had assembled the hood, the back, the sleeves and the two fronts with the welt buttonholes. I’d left the pockets to the last, because I knew it would be fiddly because of the bulk of the fabric. Actually, they were fine, and the rest went together really well.

Hood, collar pieces and facings sewn, no side seams!

collage coat pocket — Welt pockets. On the left you can see the bits of interfacing on the fronts, and the cut down dart to reduce bulk.

On the weekend I attached the zipper to the centre front and made up the collar, attached the hood and facings. I attached the zipper before I sewed the shoulder and side seams, figuring that it would be far easier to do with less fabric and fewer pattern pieces flapping about. I also attached the collar and hood pieces before sewing the side seams. If fact, I didn’t sew the side seams until I’d finished all the faffy, bulky work on the front. It was tricky enough to do flat, I can only imagine how frustrating it would have been had the sides been attached.

Things got really tricky with the front tab and collar, there were so many layers of wool that it was tricky to get it all in under the foot of the machine. This is one of the times when I am very happy to have a sewing machine that weighs so much! I really don’t think I’d have been able to manage with a modern, lightweight machine. Then adding the front fastening band made more bulk and made things worse.

I am unhappy with the position of that piece, I couldn’t get it higher as the machine pushed it down every time I forced it under the foot, even when I basted it in place. It also seems to be too far from the centre front, and I think that’s because of the width of the zipper. I really should have attached the band closer to the front. Monday wasn’t a great sewing day, I had a re-occurence of my nasty headaches and attempted to work through it. It wasn’t one of my best ideas, and I had no relief the next day either. So now I have a pretty much finished coat, but I’m unhappy with that band and know it will be a mission to move it. So I’m inclined to leave it. But I know it’s not right. Grrr

collage sleeve — Left, sleeve head tipped over; top right, pinning the sleeve in the seamline; bottom right, sewing the sleeve into the armhole, sleeve side up.

In contrast, the sleeves went in so easily! If you’re making a jacket or coat, run a line of long gathering stitches 2cm from the edge of the fabric, just one line, and pull that up slightly, to give you the shape of the sleeve head. Then pin it into the armhole with the armhole folded back, and the sleeve over it. Next, pin on the stitching line, parallel to the stitching line, easing the fullness into the sleeve head. It’s fiddly and the pins bite, but it gives a great finish. Then you sew the seam from the inside, the sleeve side up, picking out the pins as you get to them and using both hands and almost all your fingers to smooth out the fulness and avoid puckering. Once you’re happy with it and the hang is good, sew in the sleeve padding. This can be purpose made wadding or you could cut bias strips of your fabric and fold in half longways. Stitch just before the original sleeve seam and fold it over and into the sleeve head. Some jackets need this step, some don’t, it all depends on the look you’re after.

Looking up at the shoulder pad on the left, into the armhole with the interfacing and padding showing.

The lining is in, and the hem handstitched in place. The lining is from The Lining Company. It’s an acetate/viscose twill, and it’s shot, so you get a lovely shade of colour, depending on the direction in which you view it, and which side you use! I chose the Light Blue Fawn colour, which looks fabulous with the colour of the wool. I’m using the blue-er side but have decided to use the other side which has more of a gold tone to cover the snaps for the front. I was hoping to find a brass/bronze colour snap in the time I had, but I couldn’t. So simple silver snaps are now covered with the lining.

I had originally intended to finish the coat to wear to the Knitting and Stitching Show in London tomorrow, but the weather is not showing me I’ll be needing it, and I haven’t got the fastening band buttonholes done yet either. I guess that although my headaches have finally passed, I’m not in quite the right place to finish today. I’ll get it done over the weekend, and hopefully some proper photos will follow soon! In the meantime, I’m looking forward to my first visit to a big London sewing show!

I’ll show you what I buy over the weekend, all the fabric I bought at the NEC earlier this year has now been made up, so I’m kinda justified in getting a bit more! 😉 And I would love to find the perfect fabric to make up another dress, The Assembly Line’s V-Neck Dress.

Coats for Christmas

coat 5 — Longline jacket Burdastyle 101 May 2017

Sometimes you have to have early Christmas presents. Those are the sort whose usefulness will be reduced if you have to wait for Christmas Day to receive them. Definitely the case with coats!

Daughter No 1 spotted the long line blazer in the May 2017 issue of Burdastyle and immediately put it on her list of things for me to sew. We just needed the right fabric – same old story. So the project languished with all the others I desperately want to get on with, but am held back on. The arrival of Autumn heralded a change round of fabric boxes, summer stuff into the back reaches of the cupboard, winter weights rediscovered. And in that box was a 2.5m length of grey wool with a darker windowpane woven through it. I’d bought it from Croft Mill Fabrics 2-3 years ago and never got round to turning it into the “perfect jacket”.

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But it could be the “perfect coat”. The blazer in the May Burda was made with crepe, soft and draping. But this was no heavyweight coating fabric – I thought we could gamble. As luck would have it, Daughter No 1 rather likes grey and gave her seal of approval to it’s use for her coat immediately. I also had a lovely dark blue satin lining in the stash (bought for the grey wool) that proved enough for the coat.

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A few adjustments were necessary, she didn’t like the slits in the side seams of the original coat pattern, so these were omitted, and she wanted less volume in the back. I took the centre back seam in a total of 3cm at the waist, and 1cm on each side of the back panel where it joined the side panel. This gives more shape to the coat, and eliminates the need for a belt, or half-belt as in the original design. I made small adjustments to the seams where the inseam pockets were to be inserted to that they’d be more invisible and have less bulk at the seam.

Collage tay coat

I pinned the checks of the windowpane together in a 20cm grid to ensure nothing moved around and to make sure the pattern would be easier to line up afterwards. I drew lines on the pattern pieces to make sure I was laying everything out exactly and that the patterns would match. It took some time, but was definitely worth it in the end. I chose the speed tailoring route rather than traditional, time was of the essense here, and while I know you get a fabulous look with traditional tailoring, I think you can get just as good a finish if you use speed tailoring correctly.

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All in all, it took 5 days from starting to cut until the coat was finshed. I took my time, no rushing, and I’m dead chuffed with the result. My second coat was to be a very different one, but there was a little change of plan after the first one was seen…

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Originally Daughter No 2 was looking at a more slouchy fit coat, dropped shoulders, slight cocoon shape. I’d already got the wool, 3m of the most beautifuly soft lambswool from Fabworks Online. And the colour? Most appropriately named “Autumn Maple”. It’s gorgeous!! On a flying visit home from Uni, she spotted the grey coat hanging in a wardrobe, tried it on and fell in love. Thank heavens it didn’t quite fit her properly or I’d have been looking to make another for Daughter No1!!

Collage am coat

So I needed to trace the bigger size of the first coat, lengthen the sleeve by 4cm and make the same alterations in the back, and to the pockets, as I’d made first time around. This fabric is a coating fabric, so I made the upper collar a little bigger that the first one to accommodate the turn of cloth, as well as the revers and remaining centre front. (Tip, when making coats and jackets, always make the upper pieces bigger, never trim the under pieces smaller).

coat 1

Again, taking 5 days and working carefully with my interfacings, organza cloth and clapper, I think I managed to turn out a lovely looking coat! I love the lining fabric which she chose from Fancy Silk Store. The gold spots pick up on the orange of the coat and just shine. I chose a dark bronze snap for the closure and attached it with nice neat buttonhole stitch. I was tempted to use a brown or dark thread for this, but the orange makes it look like a star, and that I like.

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I love a good hidden in-seam pocket. #burdastyle #coat #inseampocket

A post shared by Anne W (@compulsive_seamstress) on Nov 28, 2017 at 8:15am PST

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Both girls love their new coats, and the different fabrics and colours are enough that they don’t look like they’re wearing the same thing when they’re together. At least, I hope not!! They look amazing, and warm and cosy, which is the most important job of a coat.

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Now there’s still the matter of a certain coat for Mr W… It might have to wait for next year. There are plans afoot for trousers, more sweaters and some self drafted goodies for Daughter No1’s boyfriend. If they get going before I have a “suitable” lining for the famous coat, they will be done first! 🙂