Mother’s Day Coat

I’ve finally made it!!  I honestly cannot remember when I got the fabric for this coat, but it was a good few years back, for Mother’s Day.  I’d seen it on the Fabrics Galore website and hinted to the girls that if they were looking for a present but hadn’t found anything yet….  Naturally the hint worked, and the fabric duly arrived.  I had an idea of what I wanted, a coat with a simple shape without too much detail, to show off the woven pattern in the fabric.  Eventually I saw Stephanie’s coat, and then other versions appeared, and I knew this was the one, Burda 6772, now out of print.

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Burdastyle Coat 6772

I’ve been meaning to get the coat made ever since buying the pattern, but for some reason spring and summer pass by in a flash and I never get round to it!  Last year I decided it was my “year of coats” and added it to the list.  I made 2 and a quarter of the coats on the list before everything changed and the world turned upside down.  So here we are again, a new year and another Spring season.  But this time it’s different, this time I have my Spring coat!  Made from Mother’s Day fabric, in time to wear for Mother’s Day!

I decided on version A, but to keep it simple, eliminated the belt and belt loops.  And because I want to have warm arms in Spring, used the full length sleeves of version B.  At first I thought of a contrasting colour for the lining, but reminded myself that I was supposed to be keeping things simple, so kept it blue!

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I made a toile of the bodice to check for fit across the bust and decided to make an adjustment in the bust area for depth, but not width.  This increased the size of the bust dart which had an impact on the stripe matching later.  I also shortened the upper bodice and sleeve depth by a centimetre, and made a small full bicep adjustment to the two piece sleeves.  The shoulders were also narrowed by a centimetre, which doesn’t sound like much, but it moves the armhole into the right position.   A second toile proved I’d got the kinks out, and once the skirt was pinned on to the front and folded up a lot, I had the overall issues sorted!  The skirt was shortened by 8cm in the end!  I definitely think I’ve got the right length.

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The coat is interfaced with speed tailoring interfacing, a mixture of a fine sheer fo the facings, and a woven weft insertion for the back stay, sleeve heads and the t-piece in the front.  The hems of the skirt piece and sleeves are interfaced with weft insertion interfacing cut on the bias. I also made a chest plastron from canvas and used some of the same in the collar stand for more rigidity.  Shoulder pads complete the structure.

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Lining is a pretty blue viscose lining from Fabworks, I ordered a metre which was enough for the main, and used grey and white striped lining from the stash for the sleeves.  Buttons were from the stash too!  I love it when I don’t need to go button shopping, because, lets face it – I have enough buttons.  I managed to get the stripes to match up in most places, but I obviously wasn’t as careful as I would have liked!  In some areas they are out, and there’s just nothing I can do about it now.  I guess that means my head wasn’t quite as focused on the job as I would have liked.  With the sleeve, I decided to match the pattern from the armhole down, rather that try to match in across the front and back.  This is because of the bodice dart affecting the stripe placement.

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Destashed buttons for the win!

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I think I might be getting to the stage when I can say, I have enough coats too!  Never thought I’d be saying that!!  I just have two more on the list I really want to get made, one being a waterproof that I want this summer.  I bought navy oilskin from Merchant and Mills in 2016 and it’s still on the roll in the corner of my sewing room!  I also want to make a peacoat from fabric I’ve had for more than 10 years…  I have the lining – silk Liberty, and the pattern is traced and ready to toile.  One day!

Work in Progress Wednesday 2/2021

In amongst all the quick fix projects and, of course, the Sewing Japanese in January, I have started work on a coat pattern.  This particular coat pattern has been in the making queue for some time, at least 5 years!  Every spring I commit to getting it made, and every autumn I put the fabric back in the cupboard, because I haven’t got round to it.  But not this year.  I have the pattern, and I have actually cut it out!!!  Mind you only the pattern – let’s not get carried away!    I’ve checked the measurements of the pattern against my measurements and have been looking at what adjustments will be needed.

So, what am I going to make?  I have a length of blue and white cotton jacquard that the girls bought me for Mother’s Day ages ago, I just fell in love with it.  Then, in 2016 I saw a coat that Stephanie from Sea of Teal had just made, and it all clicked!  That was the pattern I wanted for the fabric!  A spring/summer coat, perfect.  The pattern is Burda 6772, unfortunately it doesn’t look like you can buy it anywhere at the moment!

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Burda 6772

According to measurements, I’ll be making the 44 with a small FBA and narrowing the shoulders.  I might technically get away without an FBA, will need to toile the pattern as is before deciding.  There is a hitch though, this pattern has a sidebody.  Princess seams result in a side front, this has been attached to the side back as one piece, so you have centre back, side piece and centre front.  I’ve not done an FBA with a sidebody before, so this could be interesting….

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Measurement comparison, in centimetres

So, according to those measurements, I’d need to add 4cm of ease across the bust, 2cm at the waist but nothing on the hip.  If I start by toiling the 44 as is, I know the bust will fit, but it will be too big across the shoulders and upper chest.  I’ll have to figure out which way will work better for me.  I guess that means it’s time to dig out the scrap fabric and start sewing.  See you on the other side, but first, I have admin to finish so the toiling will have to wait for the weekend.