The big sleeve – I wonder when it’s not going to be something we all love to wear? I sincerely hope that never happens, because I love me a big sleeve! The blouse attached to this particular big sleeve is one I’ve made before, 114 from the January issue of Burda, 2016. The last time I made it I used a piece of precious silk from my stash, and I’ve loved wearing that blouse! I decided it was time to make another, a slightly more “everyday” version.
The fabric is viscose, on off-white ground with a 3mm wide black stripe running parallel to the grain. Like all viscoses, it’s soft and fluid and has great drape. I got it from Croft Mill back in January in their sale section, and they have just 2 metres left of it! It pre-washed with no hitches and it irons really nicely. For the cutting out, I pinned loads of the stripes to each other, because – like viscose does – it moves!! Pinning worked, and I managed to get it all cut with the minimum of blue air. I changed the layout just a little, the front is supposed to be cut as two and seamed down the centre with an opening at the neck. I cut it on the fold and made an opening bound with a bias continuous placket instead.
That was the only adjustment to the pattern made this time. I had already made an FBA when I made the pattern back in 2018 and I stuck with that. French seams keep all the insides neat and tidy and I double rolled the hem. The neck and sleeves are bound with bias strips and I love the angle of the stripe in those areas. The back yoke is just one layer, with the lower back gently gathered into the centre of the yoke. I like this small amount of gathering because it isn’t too full.
Then there’s the sleeve…. I love this sleeve! It’s cut cleverly so the the opening isn’t parallel to the floor. The top sleeve area is shorter than the under-sleeve, giving a fuller effect when you wear it. Can I just walk around fluttering my sleeves everywhere I go? This is a fabulous addition to my wardrobe, I felt I had a gap for a lighter coloured blouse, and now that’s filled! It’ll be lovely to wear more when the weather warms up!
THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS 