bias cut – THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS

Well now, here is one pattern I will definitely be using again! And with 4 different looks available from just 4 different facings, I am going to have a field day!

This is the blue silk with spots that I think I got from Rosenberg & Sons, a very long time ago! There never seemed to be the right pattern for it, so it languished in my silks box for years. I had been dreaming of a bias cut, cowl necked top for a bit, and after the pattern Magic weekend I ran, I wanted to try out the Different Looks, Different Facings patterns in Pattern Magic 2.

Image from Pattern Magic 2, Different looks, Different Facings

Basically you draft one front with cowl etc, and choose from 4 different facings, or draft them all and vary them later! I went with the asymmetrical one first, and cut the back bodice on the straight, leaving in all the darts etc so that I’d have a shaped blouse, not a floppy one!

Image from pattern Magic 2, showing three of the four facings

I went with a fairly plain sleeve. I used Winnie’s semi-fitted sleeve, and shortened it to 3/4 length, which is my preferred length for sleeves. The drafting process whas fairly easy, but I would say that if you have a larger bust you may find it nigh on impossible to get the cowl measurement the same on the bodice and the facing. When I did the pattern in 1/4 scale for the workshop I used a Winnifred Aldrich standard size 12 block, and it worked just fine. But with a non-standard size the numbers just didn’t play ball. In the end I re-shaped the facing to fit the longer length altered neckline on the front pattern piece. It worked out ok I think!

Nice shaped back, no "tenting"! — Nice shaped back, no “tenting”!

I am sorry if these pics seem slightly blurred, Daughter No2 doesn’t seem to be able to hold a camera steady!

I'm definitely making more of these! — I’m definitely making more of these!

And a wobbly self portrait to finish off! I took this last night, immediately after finishing it. I was so happy that it had worked out even better than I had imagined!

Right, I’m off to draft the other facings! Oh, and to get started on the duck egg corduroy jacket. I was in Birmingham on Monday morning with Daughter No1 and we popped into the Fancy Silk Stores. I got a fabulous silver Jaeger lining for the jacket, so now there are no more excuses not to get it made!

***UPDATE***

I tried out the v-neck version today, not so impressed. I removed the v-neck facing and put the asymmetrical one in instead – MUCH better! I think that’s the one for me then, can’t complain really!

bias cut stripe dress — Sky-blue summer dress

Another day, another dress!

As the Olympics draw nearer, I think we have a winner!

This dress uses the basic shape of the pattern used for the Simply Red dress, but I have eliminated all the panels and cut on the bias to take full advantage of the stripes.

The fabric is a fine cotton sent to me as part of an estate sale haul by a friend who has ~~abandoned me~~ moved to the States. (Her busband blogs here – an online diary of his aclimatisation) I had to line the dress, this fabric was a trifle too transparent in the light – ok for a shirt, not so good for anything with a skirt!

To give it a little more interest I added some blue broiderie anglaise to the hem of the cotton lining, just enough to peek out at the bottom.

A happy Daughter No2 showing off her handywork – a totebag embroidered, beaded and sequined by her own fair hand as a birthday present for a friend

I will be making another panelled dress, I dug out another piece of fabric sent by the same friend, this time a black and blue print that will look just stunning!!