I had intended to post this yesterday, but couldn’t get access to my computer and realised that the new Jet Pack upgrade to the phone app doesn’t allow you to create a new post from your phone! I am excited about this project, I think I’ve made the perfect combination of fabric and pattern! The pattern is one I’ve used before, jacket 111 from the August 2021 issue of Burda. I love wearing the black jacket I made before and thought that a lighter weight version would be lovely for spring/summer.
When I made the black jacket, I altered the pattern by adding depth for a Full Bust Adjustment. I had also already altered the collar and front to allow for turn of cloth, I made this allowance slightly narrower because my fabric is less bulky than the last time. I lost the allowance on the front because I wanted to change the look of the front. While the double-breasted design is fine, this time I wanted it as a single. I measured out from the centre front, a 1.5cm buttonstand and added seam allowance and a bit more for turn of cloth, making the same adjustments on the front facing (except the turn of cloth extra!). The pockets also needed work – the original ones were a pain to sew the hem up around, and I always find them too far back, even though they’re in the side seams. I faffed around for a while with placement, etc, but ended up leaving the pockets off all together.
So, let’s show you my workings so far. I had already decided not to add too much structure. This jacket has no shoulder pads, so the interfacing, while being in all the important places, is only the lightweight stuff. Gill Arnold is no longer trading, so I bought this batch from The English Couture Company.
I loved the piping detail on the magazine version but it would have been totally obscured with the fabric I used on my first version, so this was my chance! I use a bit of left-over blue cotton twill chino fabric for the piping, but didn’t add piping cord, so it’s just a small flap. I cut 3.5cm bias strips and folded them in half. With the standard 1.5cm seam allowance, the strip sticking out is just 2-3mm, which does the job for me just perfectly. With this fabric, I love the strip of dark blue!
Let’s talk fabric – I bought it from Stitch Fabrics, aka Rosenberg and Sons in the autumn last year at the Quilting show at the NEC. I can’t find it on their website, so I assume it’s out of stock now. It’s the most beautiful jacquard, with a denim coloured ground and an overlaid print of white flowers and leaves. I loved it the minute I saw it on the stand and knew it would be a jacket.
I just love the way the sleeves have turned out with the piping! I made a sleeve facing for the hem, the curve is just too great to allow for an ordinarily turned-up hem. It is so much neater and will allow for the lining hem to sit nicely too. The extra allowed in the upper collar for turn of cloth has resulted in a very nice finish there too, I am happy with the way it’s all going so far! I’ve ordered lining from Croft Mill Fabrics, something bright and yummy!! I didn’t want blue or white on the inside of this gorgeous jacket, so went looking for an orange/paprika/rusty shade. Croft Mill had just what I wanted and I can’t wait for it to arrive! All I still need to do is decide on buttons. Will I have enough in the stash?
Stay tuned for the finished project, hopefully it won’t be too long!!