THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS

Purple Haze

Phew! A project that worked! It is fair to say that this project has been way more successful than the poor dress…

So this was made from the easy fitting bodice block. At first I thought I’d adapt the block to make it a dropped shoulder and lowered armscye… Not successful! I toiled it up and wasn’t impressed. The easy fitting block is loose anyway, but with the added 10cm from the adaptation it was swimming on me! It was rather hideous. So I went back to the table and just did a dropped shoulder. I moved the bust dart from the shoulder to the underarm, and shortened it quite a bit. I only wanted a small amount of shaping as the fabric is supposed to have some room to drape.

fabric & inspiration — Georgette and the inspiration picture

The shoulder was dropped by 5cm, which really seems to be the limit. I am quite happy with it. I used French seams on all the seams, and double turned the hem so there are no edges showing anywhere. The facing was cut a little wide to support the ruffles. Initially I was going to have 3 rows, but the two work just fine, I think it would have been too much to have another. This pattern really worked well. I have some other fine, fluid fabrics that this would work in, or I could come up with something else…

Now usually I wouldn’t buy a polyester, I prefer to work with natural fibres, but when I saw this georgette online at Ditto Fabrics, I had to have it. The colour just screamed: “BUY ME!!!”

When a plan doesn’t quite work out

You know the feeling when you are about to cut up your favourite fabric – the “Oh boy, I hope this works” feeling. Then you take a deep breath and go for it. I finished the Kimono dress in that fabulous silk. But I don’t like it… OH NOOOO!!!

Photos will follow, once I can force myself to get daughter no 1 to take some for me. I don’t quite know what went wrong – the pattern doesn’t go with the shape, I hate the waistband area… So for now I will pop it back in the cupboard and get on finishing the purple georgette blouse which, fingers crossed, seems to be working out better.

I have learn one thing though – I do NOT look like the figure in the sketch!! I will have to make some templates that are more my shape than a tall skinny minny! Perhaps that will help me to be more realistic! I saw a pin on Pinterest a while ago… and I think this sums up my predicament perfectly, although it isn’t always the camera and the mirror who disagree, it’s me and the mirror/camera!

Friday – busy day!

Wow, I can honestly say I am gobsmacked! This little blog of mine has been ticking along with a handful of visitors, when suddenly the tracking spiked!! Thank you so much to BurdaStyle for making me featured member of the week! Another big thank you to those who have added my blog to their subscriptions lists, and those who left me comments.

So back to work! I have re-drafted some of my personal blocks. After making the jacket this last month and having way too many adjustments to make, I gave in. So yesterday I drew a new Jacket Block, Coat Block, Close Fitting and Easy Fitting Bodice Block. They will all be used this season! I still need to toile and fit them, and draft their respective sleeves, but in the mean time I thought I’d share what I intend to do with them!

I have a lovely purple georgette that has been begging for something pretty and floaty. I am going to use the Easy Fitting Bodice Block to make a loose-fitting top with a dropped shoulder and ruffles along the neckline. Isn’t that top cute? And purple will make a change to my usual grey, black or blue! The georgette is not silk, unfortunately, but I loved the colour when I saw it on Ditto Fabric‘s website, so I had to have it!

Next, the Close Fitting Bodice Block will be converted into a One-Piece Dress Block and then I will adapt the bodice and sleeve to form a Kimono Block. I have FINALLY decided what that green and turquoise silk is going to be!

Silk & sketch — Silk Graphic Kimono Dress

The Coat Block is going to be a hip length Pea Coat in the most beautiful pale, ice-blue cashmere that I bought at Fred Winter back in January on their winter sale! I already knew I wanted something different, so I also got some Liberty silk for the lining and some Dupion to make piped details!

And the Tailored Jacket Block?? Something simple. A cropped jacket with 3/4 length sleeves, possibly cut on the bias to take advantage of the burgundy/maroon flecks in the grey wool I got last week at Fred Winter. I was really good, only getting 1.7m instead of going for the remains of what was on the roll, 2.5m! I am sure I would have used it somewhere, but if I had got 2.5m I just know I would still be procrastinating this time next year! I am going to use the last three buttons from my antique shop purchase, the others are on the Spotty Jacket.

jacket sketch & fabric — Grey wool and Jacket sketch

So that’s that!! Busy me! Have a fabulous sunny weekend (if you are in the UK) I will be making winter goodies! 😀

How to make a Skater Skirt

Two posts in a week!! I think it is about time I did some catching up! 😀 Here are the instructions to make the pattern for a skater skirt, using the tailored skirt block from the previous tutorial. This pattern will give you a 12 panelled skirt.

Step 1

Trace off the skirt block as one piece. Move the side seam to the centre of the block. Divide the block along the hip line into 6 equal parts and draw lines from the top to the bottom of the block to make the panels. Make sure these are at right angles to the hip and hem line. The red lines in the drawing are the original block lines, the blue ones are the new lines for the pattern.

Step 2

Draw a dotted line parallel to the waist and hip line, 14cm down from the waistline. Construct new darts on the panel lines to touch this line. Ignore the old darts (the ones in red on this drawing). The darts on the back panel lines are 2.5cm each, and the front darts are 1.5cm each. Add 1cm to the back and front side seams and draw a new curved line to the hip point.

Step 3

Decide where the skirt will sit at the waist, whether you are having a straight waistband, a shaped waistband or a facing. Also decide on the finished length. For this project I dropped the waist line by 2cm and made the skirt 40cm long overall. Mark the length – don’t worry to add a hem allowance at this point, it is better to have the finished length when you toile it up. Adjust the waistline accordingly.

Step 4

Cut along the new waistline. Number the panels and add grainlines perpendicular to the hipline on each panel. Cut off the bottom at the new hemline.

Step 5

Mark a facing 5cm deep on the pattern and trace this off, including the markings for the darts. Cut the facing and close the darts to make a curved pattern shape. Mark the centre front and back, and for a skirt with a side zip, label the centre lines as being placed on a fold. You will need to add a seam allowance to the side seam of each facing piece, as well as to the top. Standard seam allowance is 1.5cm.

Step 6

Cut up the panel lines of the skirt. Stick paper down each side of the panels and add 3-5cm (or more if you want a really full skirt) to each side of each panel piece. Add seam allowance to the top and sides of each panel, but leave the hem for now. The pieces I show have had the fulness added from the dotted line that was 14 cm down from the waistline. You could also use the hipline as the start point. This would make the skirt more fitting to the hip, only flaring from there. You need to decide where you would like the fullness to start. I have shown a 4cm flare at the hemline.

So that is your pattern. For making up, it is easier to make the whole front and back, and then to attach them at the side seams. Remember to leave the left side seam open to the hipline for a zip. Sew the front and back facing together at the right side seam. Attach the facing to the top edge of the skirt, clip and understitch. Interface the facing. At the toile stage you can finalise the finished length, then add the hem allowance to the paper pattern. For this skirt 2cm should be sufficient. The fuller the skirt the more difficult it will be to hem with a deep allowance.

I would love to see the skirts made using this tutorial, so please post them, either on Burdastyle or Pinterest, with a link back here. Happy pattern cutting!

Spot That Jacket

Ok, apologies need to be made…. I have neglected my blog. It’s not that I wasn’t doing anything else, I just didn’t have much to write about until I had finished this project. I know I had posted that fabulous green and turquoise silk, and I will still make it up. Although it may not be along the lines of the dress posted! While indecision plauged me though, I had something lined up!

I had bought this spotty cotton and silk grossgrain from my favourite fabric shop, aaaages ago. I won’t even try to calculate how long I have had it! Anyway, I had seen a jacket in a shop, about 2 years ago (!) that I liked the neckline of, and I quickly sketched it. This was the basis of the jacket I have just made. Sorry this is a bit blurred!

jacket sketch — Jacket with Peter Pan Collar - Sketch

I wanted something that would fit snugly in the back, and also provide some sort of indication of shape at the waist (a bit of a cheat, as there really is none!). I made the basic tailored jacket block and had husband draw on the panel lines, with me checking in the mirror! Then I cut the block up and transferred the lines onto the paper pattern. I closed the darts and voila! The front is plain, just two panels with welt pockets. There wasn’t much point in doing anything fancy as it would detract from the collar.

jacket toile - back — Jacket toile - back

jacket toile - front — Jacket toile - front

The toile was cool, the shape worked really well and I love the curves on the back. Although, thinking about it, you can’t really see the section seams that well amongst all the spots! Oh well. Another thing to think of is the collar. When I toiled the jacket I only did one layer, and it seemed ok, but….. In the finished garment the narrow ends near the centre front seem flat. I am going to have to tighten up the neck edge of the collar pattern to encourage a bit of a rise there. But it is no train smash, perfectly wearable! lol.

Jacket panel pieces — Jacket Panel Pieces

So, the structure – I used fusible interfacing from Gill Arnold. I used the weft insertion on the “t-zone”, the hem edges and the upper cuff and collar. The facing, under collar and cuff were interfaced with the fine sheer polyester. This is to reduce bulk while still ensuring support. I made a pattern for a chest piece and cut the canvas on the bias. I didn’t use any canvas in the collar, perhaps once I fix the pattern and make another I may use a bit on the lower edges, just to make sure the shape is held properly. Cotton tape was fused down the front opening edges to make ensure a sharp fold. The shoulder pads are a felted tailor’s set, also from Gill.

And this is the finished product. Daughter no 1 thinks it’s really cool to take photos at an angle, so no need to adjust your sitting position while viewing the pics!

I seem to have spots on the brain, as I am making a blouse now, a black and white spotty silk chiffon!

Drafting a Skirt Block

The straight skirt block is the basic skirt pattern, from which pretty much all other skirt patterns are made. This tutorial is based on the method in Winifred Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting. I have included the two size tables for your reference. You do not need to take every measurement!! For skirts take your waist and hip measurement (if you are not sure where or how to do this, check here). Compare your measurements with the table and get your waist to hip measurement from the table. If you have different sizes don’t stress too much, the waist to hip doesn’t vary that much, so go by the one for your hip measurement.

Charts

So, armed with your waist, hip and waist to hip measurement you can begin.

Step 1.

You will be starting with a rectangle. Draw a line roughly parallell to the top edge of your paper. Put a small line and a #1 on the left of the line.

1 – 2: Measure along the line 1/2 of your hip measurement, plus 1.5cm. Make a mark and lable it #2.

1 – 3: This line MUST be 90 degrees to the line 1 – 2. Finished shirt length. For the purposes of a block, make this knee length, so make this line about 50cm long, and mark the end with a #3.

3 – 4: Is the same as the measurement 1 – 2. Again, make sure all your lines are straight and at right angles to each other.

2 – 4: Close the rectangle.

Skirt block Step 1 — Step 1 - The Rectangle

Step 2.

1 – 5: Waist to hip measurement from the table. Mark #5 and draw a line across the block to intersect 2-4. Mark this point #6.

5 – 7: 1/4 of your hip measurement, plus 1.5cm. Mark #7 and draw a line down to the hem for #8.

Step 3:

1- 9: 1/4 of your waist measurement, plus 4.25cm. Mark #9 and draw a short line up. #10 is 1.25cm up this line.

Draw a dotted line from #1 to #10. Divide this line into 3 equal parts and mark points # 11 and #12. Draw lines from these points at right angles. The line from #11 is 14cm long. Mark point # 13 at the end. The line from #12 is 12.5cm long. Mark point # 14.

Step 4:

Draw darts on the two lines from #11 and #12, 2cm wide. (that’s 1cm on each side of the central line)

2 – 15: 1/4 your waist measurement plus 2.25cm. Mark #15 and draw a line up. #16 is 1.25cm up this line.

#17 is a third of the measurement 16 – 2. Draw a line from #17, 10cm long. Mark point # 18 at the end.

Step 5:

Draw a dart 2cm wide on the line from #17.

Find the halfway point of the lines from #7 to #10 & 16. Mark a point 0.5cm out from this point on each line. Draw a curved line from #10 to #7, and #16 to #7. Make sure these lines touch the point you just marked and that they flow easily to the straight line from #7 to #8.

Draw a slow curve from #1 to #10 and #2 to #16.

Add notations, Back, Front and centres.

At this point, also add your name, the date, and the measurements you used, ie, hip and waist. This will come in handy when you want to check whether or not the block still fits you later on! So now you have a half skirt. To do the next step, you need to ink in the outer lines, the line from 7-8 and the darts. Then use tracing paper and trace out each skirt piece separately, so you have a front and a back. Cut the front out on a fold and cut 2 back pieces. Remember that the block has NO SEAM ALLOWANCE!! So add to the side seams and the centre back. Also remember to leave the centre back open from waist to hip so you can get it on! Keep this pattern uncut. If you need to make adjustments, use coloured pens to mark new lines, and DATE the adjustments. Use the patterns you traced off this one to cut up, otherise you will have to make a block everytime you want a new pattern. This is your template, keep it safe!

I will post the method I used to make the skater skirt next.

Happy drafting! Any questions, just shout, and if I haven’t made anything clear enough, please let me know, and it will be fixed asap!

Graphic dress

I have found something to use that wonderful silk in, thanks to Kim and Immi for their suggestions. Mooching on Pinterest today, my eye was caught by this pretty blue number… I had thought to change the collar though. I really like the “Just like a stole” detail from Pattern Magic 2, so I thought I’d give that a go, and change the sleeves a little. As summer is pretty much over here in the UK, I will want something to take me into the autumn, so I think a 3/4 sleeve will do.

pattern magic - stole — Just like a Stole - Pattern Magic 2

I can’t make up my mind whether to have a plain but fitted sleeve or something with a bit of oomphf, like a sleeve with a cowl drape at the head?? I always liked this dress from Burda Style‘s December 2010 magazine. It’s style no 102 for those who want to dig it out..

Dress 102 — Dress with drape sleeve - BurdaStyle magazine 12/2010

I guess I had better get cracking with the paper and scissors then.. ;D

Help Wanted

I’m a little stuck. I have 1.9m of this gorgeous lime and turquoise fabric, and I just cannot decide what to make with it. It was the end of the roll in the shop, so I couldn’t leave it there, it was just too beautiful.

So I need help. I had thought of a cowl neck dress – or a kimono sleeve top – or an empire line – or a skirt of some sort… I don’t want to cut it on the bias though. I just don’t want it to join the rest of the silks in the cupboard, waiting for me to decide what to make with them. You know the feeling – you buy something because it is beautiful, and then cannot bring yourself to cut it up and make something just in case it isn’t quite right, and then it’s all been for nothing.

So I await your comments…. 🙂

Liberty Dress

Another project done! 😀 I have finished putting together the Liberty Dress, at long last! Many things conspired against me this week, but there you go, that’s life!

anthropologie dress — Inspiration picture - dress from Anthropologie

This is the exact same pattern as the Reception Dress, see how the different weight fabrics affect the hang of the skirt – as well as not having the copious amounts of tulle underneath! All three fabrics are Liberty Tana Lawn, the dress is lined with a white cotton lawn. I interfaced the upper sections with Gill Arnold‘s polyester fine sheer fusible for strength, but again like the Reception Dress, I didn’t bone the bodice.

So here are the shots of the finished garment, I’d love to hear what you think…

Quick Missoni Dress-Top

A piece of fabric practically jumped into my hands a little while ago while all I was supposed to be getting was a zip… On the remnants table at Fred Winter was this 60cm piece of ex-Missoni knit fabric. I couldn’t leave it there, could I??

You can just make out the cutting lines in this picture, I halved daughter no 2’s measurements and took 10% off the bust. As this is a stretch knit we didn’t want anything to fall down! Then I added to the hip measurement so the top/dress would flare out nicely toward the hem. Next I cut along the fold and overlocked the sides together. The top edge was overlocked too and then I turned under a casing for the elastic. This I used a twin needle to do, not having mastered the coverstitch on my overlocker just yet… Then I cut the straps off an old bra that had a matching colour to the stripes and sewed them on, daughter no 2 didn’t fancy any wardrobe malfunctions! I used the zigzag selvage for the hem, it just needed some tidying up, but I think it looks great!

And this is the finished product!