Well now, would you look at this. I have actually made two of the items I had planned to do lately.. This from someone who doesn’t plan! I finished this jacket on Tuesday, but the weather was not playing ball for photos. With a breather in the clouds and rain today, Daughter No1 & I decided some fresh air and photos was in order. I still had cards to deliver too!
This is the pattern I made back in November – last year! I had been toying with the darted sleeve head idea and ran up a toile, but realised with the extended shoulders that the rever and collar were going to need adjustment. No problem, but I couldn’t make up my mind on the fabric. I eventually used the original collar and rever and made a different sleeve, which resulted in this jacket.
I finally chose a fabric to use for the darted sleeve version, a duck-egg blue fine wale corduroy from Ditto Fabrics that a friend had given me for a Christmas present. But I had no lining or buttons so it languished in the cupboard for a while. More than a while, actually! If you check out the other jacket photos you will see the difference in the collar and revers. I actually prefer the width of these ones, I think the previous revers were too narrow for that jacket too!
I did lengthen the front of this jacket, something I noticed after wearing the other one was that it could have done with being about 2-3cm longer in the front. I also added welt pockets. I realised at the first fitting that the jacket was looking a little plain and boring, so I quickly got cracking with the welts! Note to self – decide on pockets before making up fronts and attaching to backs… The pocket bags use some left-over silk from my Pattern Magic blouse. I know you’re supposed to use some of the shell fabric so the lining fabric isn’t seen, but this is way too pretty to hide!
The extended sleeves have some fusible wadding sew into the sleeve head seam to add support, and I moved the shoulder pads over slightly too, nothing worse than a collapsing sleeve head! The lining was a bargain from the Fancy Silk store in Birmingham, Jaeger cupro for just £3.99/m! Buttons are metal from Fred Winter’s in Stratford. I would have prefered to have a matching set, but so few places sell the same styles in different sizes. So I have horses on my sleeve vents and pretty ones down the front.
I love this jacket. I love the colour, love the fit and love, love, love the sleeves! What is it with me and sleeves? :s Anyhow, I now need to move onto the herringbone twill for Daughter No1’s biker-ish jacket from the Burda mag, but I will be pattern cutting it to her measurements. Maybe I will wait a couple of days first, something tells me there is an important date approaching sometime next week. ;p
So, Happy Christmas to everyone, I hope you all get loads of what you’ve asked for (fabric & some new books in my case…). Enjoy spending time with your families and friends. 😀
I have been bad. In the summer I recieved 2 blog awards and fully intended to acknowledge them properly etc, but somehow just didn’t get round to it. I have been shamed by my nomination by Ooobop of yet another 2 awards! So I’m going to combine all the thanks and gratitude in one post here. Thank you to Debbierea who delivered her award in August… Ten days later I recieved another award, but sadly the Hugs & Kisses Clothing blog no longer exists on WordPress. I’m sorry!!! And thank you Janene, I love your posts, especially the Burda reviews.
So here are the rules of the game:
1. Thank the person who nominated you
2. Add The One Lovely Blog Award / The Very Inspiring Blogger Award to your post.
3. Share 7 things about yourself.
4. Pass the award on to 10 nominees.
5. Include this set of rules.
6. Inform your nominees by posting a comment on their blogs.
Seven Things about Me
I sew every day – and night if I get the chance!
I am a selfish seamstress. I don’t like making for other people, unless it was my idea in the first place.
My fabric stash has exploded from the cupboard and now has an overflow box under the computer desk. This is not helping to hide the problem from the husband.
I run a small sewing class one Sunday a month, we have a great time and there is much chatter and laughter.
I am still getting used to having only one child at home, Daughter No1 is away at University and things are much quieter (and neater) without her.
I am making as many Chirstmas gifts this year as I can, which means the poor old Bernina has been slogging its little heart out over the last few weeks.
I’m going to run out of time! 😀
And now for the nominations of 10 deserving blogs.. I follow so many, it’s going to be hard to choose just 10.
Yes, I can count, and I know that’s 11, not 10, but how to choose??? That’s me for now then, I need to get back to my jacket, which isn’t going to finish itself by tonight if I stay sitting in front of the computer all morning.
Thank you to all the lovely ladies who helped me out getting the pictures of the awards onto the post, and the sidebar! I have written down the instructions for further use.. ;p
Well now, here is one pattern I will definitely be using again! And with 4 different looks available from just 4 different facings, I am going to have a field day!
This is the blue silk with spots that I think I got from Rosenberg & Sons, a very long time ago! There never seemed to be the right pattern for it, so it languished in my silks box for years. I had been dreaming of a bias cut, cowl necked top for a bit, and after the pattern Magic weekend I ran, I wanted to try out the Different Looks, Different Facings patterns in Pattern Magic 2.
Basically you draft one front with cowl etc, and choose from 4 different facings, or draft them all and vary them later! I went with the asymmetrical one first, and cut the back bodice on the straight, leaving in all the darts etc so that I’d have a shaped blouse, not a floppy one!
I went with a fairly plain sleeve. I used Winnie’s semi-fitted sleeve, and shortened it to 3/4 length, which is my preferred length for sleeves. The drafting process whas fairly easy, but I would say that if you have a larger bust you may find it nigh on impossible to get the cowl measurement the same on the bodice and the facing. When I did the pattern in 1/4 scale for the workshop I used a Winnifred Aldrich standard size 12 block, and it worked just fine. But with a non-standard size the numbers just didn’t play ball. In the end I re-shaped the facing to fit the longer length altered neckline on the front pattern piece. It worked out ok I think!
I am sorry if these pics seem slightly blurred, Daughter No2 doesn’t seem to be able to hold a camera steady!
And a wobbly self portrait to finish off! I took this last night, immediately after finishing it. I was so happy that it had worked out even better than I had imagined!
Right, I’m off to draft the other facings! Oh, and to get started on the duck egg corduroy jacket. I was in Birmingham on Monday morning with Daughter No1 and we popped into the Fancy Silk Stores. I got a fabulous silver Jaeger lining for the jacket, so now there are no more excuses not to get it made!
I tried out the v-neck version today, not so impressed. I removed the v-neck facing and put the asymmetrical one in instead – MUCH better! I think that’s the one for me then, can’t complain really!
A week has passed, and there hasn’t been much whirring of the old sewing machine. This is silly season for gift shops and the like, so the demand to keep stock levels up is pretty high.
So in the last week, I have used 1.5kg of clay and completely lost track of how many times I had to stock up on pretty silver, gold and red ribbons. I have used pretty much all my felt, run out of magnets twice, embroidery thread loads of times and had to stock up on cardamom pods and cloves like there was no tomorrow.
What on earth was I doing with all that stuff you ask…
The felt, embroidery thread, gold and silver ribbons, cardamom, cloves and star anise was for these:
Then the clay, and even more ribbon was for these:
How cute are these! I found some of these ribbons on a soggy stall at the Morton in Marsh Christmas Fair last weekend, in ALL that rain, from a lady who will have an online sewing goodies shop, that will be called: “pandorasewingbox” So look out for it after Christmas, she has some absolutely FABULOUS ribbons!
And the remainder of the felt and embroidery thread, and the magnets were for these:
I used the same hearts without the string and popped a small magnet in the back, so they can attatch to your fridge, or a metal surround of a mirror. I did a Christmas Fair in Oxfordshire today, and my stuff went fairly well. One of my students had made an order for 10 of the owls, and the rest will all go into “The Arter”, a gift shop in Stratford on Avon that stocks work by local artists. I did so much talking my throat hurts! I love networking though, I met Sara Page who is a surface pattern designer and who teaches on the course Daughter No1 is taking at Birmingham City University. I also just may have a possibility of a new job, doing a little patterncutting teaching! Fingers crossed! 😀
This is the table that showcased a small snapshop of the work at The Arter, ceramics, pottery, glass, textiles, and painting. It’s a great place to buy gifts if you are in the Stratford Area!
So this weekend I have a Sewing Sunday, the last of the year, and after that I plan to get cracking with the stuff from the previous post, starting with the silk top and the Pattern Magic adaptations!
Whoop, I’m on a roll with the sewing stuff! 😀 I love it, nothing better than spending hours all day with the music on and the sewing machine whirring. So what am I up to now.. well, now that you ask.
I have these:
In a clockwise direction starting top left, duck-egg blue fine whale corduroy, a Christmas present from a good friend a few years ago. I still hadn’t decided what to make with it, but I have a feeling that it will make a very cosy jacket. Remember I made a pattern that had a darted sleeve head? That was a year ago!!! Well, I think this is the fabric for that pattern! Two for One is finally going to live up to its name.
Next, the blue silk. I’ve had that a good number of years now too! I recently held a Pattern Magic workshop over a weekend, and one of the patterns we tried out was the Different Facings. I love the idea that from the same bodice front pattern you can get different tops just by altering the shape of the facing. So I am keep to make a top with this fabric using one of these patterns.
And lastly. The grey herringbone twill. That I got at Sewing for Pleasure earlier this year, and it will be the jacket in the photograph opposite. Daughter no1 fancies it very much, but I will not be using the pattern directly from the Burda magazine. I am going to have to pattern cut it because I am not in the mood to use precious time adjusting a pattern a million times! Daughter no1 is petite, very slender, but needs a FBA in every pattern.
Sewing With A Plan! At last… 😀
Enjoy your weekend, whatever you are doing, and where ever in the world you are.
All done! Photographing projects in this weather is not easy! I waited for daughter No2 to come home from school to do pics, but it was way to dark by then. We did take some photos indoors, but the lighting isn’t that good. So back outside this morning, in the rain! Grrr. How do some of you bloggers manage to get such good shots indoors? Anyways, without further ado, here’s my take on Burda’s pattern #108 from 11/2012.
This fabric is devine to wear! The only thing I’d change when I do this pattern again, and I will make another, is to cut the necktie/band on the straight. Especially if the fabric has as much movement as this viscose! Despite putting it on twice, the one side has twisted, which is most annoying! If I had cut it on the straight grain instead, that wouldn’t have happened.
With the addition of darts at the back, the blouse fits much better. And now there’s plenty of fullness in the sleeve too!
Fuzzy again, but at least I’m kinda smiling! I love that fabric!! I wonder if it came in other colourways – and where I can get my hands on some…
Grim concentration to make sure no shaky hands! hehe Self portraits aren’t easy.
Janene over at Ooobop! has posted a review of December’s Burda, so I guess I have more to make!!
And now for my next trick.. Hang on, “where’s the jacket??” you ask. Well. It’s not Autumn anymore, is it? I took too long in getting started, especially after the comments on the last post regarding busy pattern vs stylelines. Too much dithering! I’ll have it for next year, no worries!
Anyways, when the November issue of Burda landed in my sticky little fingers, I bookmarked a few patterns I wanted to make, then bemoaned the fact that all the styles I wanted would mean having to go fabric shopping! Just my luck hu? All the fabric in my stash, and none were right for the patterns I wanted to make. Then I dug a little further (never just look in the first two boxes) and found the blue and ecru flower print viscose I had bought from Tatler’s Fabric in Derby in the beginning of the year. This stuff..
This fabric has the most beautiful drape and handle, and the viscose makes the colours just sing, rather like silk. It’s fabulous! So, fabric in hand, which pattern to start with… I went with this one, (Burda 108 from 11/2012) it has my favourite sleeve detail, 3/4 length with puff and just a teeny binding as the cuff. Pattern traced, toile done.. urgh! I knew the neckline wouldn’t work on me, I had planned to alter that anyway, but the rest of it… Oh my! I made my usual Burda size, but this was too long, too wide and way too unflattering! This is it after my adjustments – please excuse the fabric, it’s a toile, and this was cheap!
I chopped 10cm off the bottom, took in the side seams, made the front dart bigger and made darts in the back to give it some shape. I don’t mind a “casual fit”, but I don’t wear tents! Anyways, by the time I’d done all that and still wasn’t happy I realised my short-cut cheating was no short cut. So I got out my pattern cutting stuff and started to make my own pattern. Just goes to show, you have to know what suits you.
I photographed the process, but I don’t think my pencil scribblings are going to be the clearest. So here goes, a tutorial if you want to make your own version. You will need to trace off your close-fitting bodice block and one piece sleeve block. First step is to draw on the buttonstands and facings for the concealed button fly. I used the same measurements as the Burda pattern for this part. Then you need to move the shoulder dart into the waist dart and plan the neckline.
I wanted a lower neckline than the jewel neck that was on the Burda pattern, and I didn’t want the narrow bias binding either. I thought I’d use the idea of the wider bias “sash and bow” of style 109, but not so wide. The bias strip I used was 3cm wide, so I planned the neckline to include this.
The back is pretty simple for now, this is the 3cm wide strip that will be cut off for the bias binding.
Next step is planning the raglan.
Draw a line 1cm above the shoulder line on the back. This will be the new shoulder line. Make a mark 3cm down from the neck point along the neckline. On the back, draw a line from this point to the back balance point.
On the front, draw a new line 1cm below the original shoulder line.
Then make a mark 3cm down from the neckpoint again, and move the front balance point 3cm up the armhole line. Draw a line from the new balance point to the mark you made on the neckline. Make this line, and the one on the back, slightly curved.
Now for the sleeve. On the sleeve pattern, move the centre line 1cm to the right. Now cut off the raglan pieces on the Front and Back pattern pieces and lay them onto the top of the sleeve head. The front and back armhole balance points need to join, and the new shoulder lines must touch the sleeve head.
I’m sorry this photo is a little fuzzy. For this design there is no dart at the top of the raglan, the space between the front and back section is gathered. So draw a slightly curved line along the top, joining the front and back. Now divide the underarm line into 4 equal sections and slash and spread to get the width for the ballooning at the sleeve hem. I also dropped the hem line at the back section by 0.75cm. I used 1.5cm at the back, 2cm in the centre and 1cm on the front. I also kept the curved hem shape as the sleeve is finishing below the elbow. I also needed to widen the sleeve at the bicep level. This is a fitting adjustment I do all the time.
The cuff for the sleeve stayed much the same, 4cm wide (including allowances) and 33cm long. The necktie was 75cm long, and 8cm wide, including allowances. It could have been longer, but I am happy with the length of the free part. It’s long enough to make a decent floppy bow, and also safe enough that if it comes untied, I won’t end up cutting it, sewing it or stirring it into my soup!
I must also add that I used a 1.5cm dart in the back pattern piece to add shaping to the back waist, the side seams had 1.5 shaping on the back and 2.5 on the front. The bodice block is drafted to the hip, about 20cm below the waist. I generally find this is too long for me for shirts, so chopped off 5cm, and then made a curved shirt hem, going up at the sides by 3cm. A shaped hem is so much more flattering than a flat one. The front dart ended up being 6.5cm at the waist and 11 at the hem. This gives a nice straight look the the front, also makes more vertical lines, which help with the slimming effect!
Here are all the pieces then. I hadn’t added the fullness to the sleeve, nor had I shaped the hem at this point. I wanted to see how it all looked before doing more fiddling, and the Burda sleeve wasn’t flared, so I wanted to see just how much puff there would be in the sleeve.
So this is a pic of the toile of my pattern using the above pattern pieces. I then altered the hem and made the sleeve fuller. I think it’s so much better than the commercial pattern! And even better after I’d made the adjustments, but that’s another post! 😀
Sorry, no smiling! I was concentrating on getting the pic in focus with no shaking! I do like it though.
So here’s my gorgeous fabric cut and ready…
It’s all made up now, I’ll get photos out when Daughter No2 gets home from school.
May I recommend some listening material? I have in my possession an already much played new release from a South African band, Prime Circle. (Thanks to my brother for special delivery-ing it to me by very fast airmail!) Their 5th album, Evidence has to be their best yet.