First time out with these, standing in the queue waiting to pay for her handful of Creme Eggs the trousers have been noticed. These are the trousers that shouldn’t have been – just a quick toile, you know. I had this fabric in my stash, I’m pretty sure it’s a hand painted/blocked piece, all cotton. I think someone was going to make a quilt with it as it had a seam up the middle and I did think I could finish that off, but I don’t do quilts.
I do do trousers. I was toiling style number 110 from BurdaStyle November 2013, the pattern I used for the Monthly Stitch’s Smarty Pants month of February. Once Daughter No2 had them on, she decided she rather liked the mad print & asked me if they could be made “wearable”. I raised my eyebrows and looked askance at her -“Seriously?”
Oh, she was serious alright! Sure, no problem.. They got shoved in the cupboard because I had other things to be getting on with at the time. All they needed was all the seams neatening, (because who neatens seams on a toile?) a fly zip insertion (ever done one of those when the trousers are pretty much finished already?) an inner waistband & interfacing & the hem and cuffs turned up & stitched.
I decided to do it today. I wanted a quick job… Well, they’re done now & as usual, she loves them! I keep seeing all the things I would never do on a “proper” pair, the pattern doesn’t line up from the trouser front onto the waistband, the front legs have a different part of pattern to the backs, the pattern doesn’t line up from the fronts onto the hip yoke pockets either & the centre front is slightly off pattern centre. These things would bug the hell out of me if they were mine, but she seems fine with it all!
Would you wear madly printed trousers like this? They’re definitely not in my wardrobe comfort zone, but this would be a very boring world if we all dressed the same, wouldn’t it?
Now I have my fourth Bellatrix Blazer to finish off – you’ll see a familiar fabric as the lining.
Happy Mother’s Day to all those who celebrate today!
With all this commotion regarding trousers I thought I’d share my most commonly used patterns. These are all Burda patterns, traced from the monthly magazines, and all made for me, not the daughters! They don’t often require the same pattern made up 4 or 5 times, they prefer different stuff each time! 🙂
Mostly I like a trouser pattern that has some width in the leg. Not to say I have never made cigarette pants, but I do like “swooshy” trousers. Another hang-up (albeit unknowing) of the 70s I guess! I live in trousers, all year round. Linen trousers with a wide leg are so cool & comfortable in the summer & for me, far better than shorts & definitely better than skirts!
The first pattern is the oldest & most probably the most used. I cannot show you a photograph from the magazine, it’s in storage in the loft! Trousers 112 (a-d) from April 2000 have been made in linens, cottons & wool, those being lined for the winter. I’ve made both lengths too. I love the fit at the low waist, the side zip & the inseam pockets just below the shaped yoke/waistband. The hem measures 62cm on the full length pair, so you can see what I mean about them being “swooshy”!
I don’t have a wool pair in my wardrobe this season, & the linen trousers are in the loft with all the old Burda magazines, so you’ll have to settle for the working drawing & my assurance that it is a good pattern!
Next up is a pattern I’ve used mostly for summer trousers. It’s 102 from Burdastyle 2/2002. It has a straight waistband that sits on the waist, a fly front & hip yoke pockets. I like the optional cuffs at the hem. They’re a straight leg pattern, with a hem width of 50cm. Again, swooshy, but not as wide all the way down as the previous trousers. Unfortunately because of the season, I don’t have them to hand, & until I started this blog, was notoriously absent from photographs, preferring to be at the other end of the camera.
I do, however, have a blurry photocopy of the image from the magazine & the working drawings to show you. As you can see, the trousers are not so baggy on the thigh, but get nice & wide from the knee down.
Next on my pile is style 104 & 5 from BurdaStyle 09/2003. I’ve put them together because they use the same pattern pieces, the only difference is 104 has a side zip & 105 a front fly. Again, a pattern that’s been made in both linen & wool with a shaped leg, falling straight from the knee & having a 50cm hem width.
Now this next pattern is one of my absolute favourites, 116 from BurdaStyle 03/2004. I have absolutely no idea how many times I have used this pattern – quite possibly at least once a year I find the need to make another version of these trousers. I adore the fit. They sit snugly at the waist & hip, have decent sized pockets and fall from the hip straight to the floor. I have them in wool, linen, cotton & linen & one in each of the colours I love so much! The shaped yoke on the back means you get a really nice shape, perfect for those who need a bit of a sway-back adjustment.
I have a copy of a copy of the picture from the magazine for you this time.
I know it’s not the greatest image, but it does show that the pants are more fitting in the hip area & just how nice & wide they are at the hem! 55cm of linen swoosh! 🙂
Only a couple more, I promise! Now I have style 105 from Burda 08/2008. They’re lovely & long & wide & they have turn ups!! Swoon… The shaped waistband with double buttons is fab & there is a neat welt pocket with button closing at the back. I made these twice for myself when a friend ( a very good friend) asked if I could possibly make her a pair. I used a fabulous black wool with faint white pinstripe. That was the first pair. Since then she’s had a pair in printed linen & another plain wool pair!
Here is the welt pocket on the back.
And the working drawings..
And the second last of my tried & tested BurdaStyle trouser patterns is this one.
I have this pattern made up in cream wool (lined), white linen, brown linen, khaki linen, black linen, lightweight denim…. I don’t really need to go on, do I?? The pattern is 102 from BurdaStyle 07/2009. I’m pretty sure what first influenced me to trace the pattern was the picture in the magazine. The model is standing in front of a Cape Dutch farmhouse. Homesick much??
They have a shaped waistband that sits just below the natural waist, hip yoke pockets, but not angled ones, a fly zip & a great fit. I’d like to say these are my favourite, but I think I’ve already said that about each & every pattern I’ve featured so far! Needless to say, there are at least 2 of each of these in my current wardrobe.
And now – last, but by absolute no means least – these fabulous bootcut trousers. I. Love. These! They are 118 from BurdaStyle 04/2009. At the moment I have two pairs in my wardrobe, a caramel colour you have seen in some of my more recent photographs without the cuffs, & a pair of dark blue & grey plaid with the cuffs I made last year.
Now I certainly don’t have the tall willowy figure of this model on the balcony of her Cape holiday home, but I can dream… I love the fit of these at the waist & hip, the narrow thigh & the wide swoosh to the floor! The little patch pockets are big enough for my iPod or a spot of cash if I need to pop to the shops without hauling my bag along. They have become a firm favourite of mine. Although I love them to death, I to have to turn up 6cm in the mid-leg. They are waaay too long for me otherwise – but look at that hem circumference! 🙂
And that, as they say, is all – folks! Hope I haven’t bored you to death with my preference for wide legged trousers – all from older BurdaStyle magazines… Hmm, I wonder if that’s telling me something. The trousers I have traced from the newer magazines have all been for the girls. I have finally decided on my choice of pattern for my own Smarty Pants entry, 102 from 07/09 in a stretch caramel linen. 🙂
ps: All BurdaStyle images remain copyright of their original owners, their use here is for purely illustrative use.
Yup, I’ve made another one! I still haven’t quite got the sleevehead – armhole issue sorted, but it’s getting there. So, how many of these will I actually make this year? Who knows! It’s really quick to make, looks fab & uses very little fabric (apart from the sleeves – how long are they!!)
I was tossing fabric out of one of my stash boxes on Tuesday after I’d finished my Jungle blouse to see what else I had for me. I made two piles: Daughter No1 & Daughter No2. (I really should have dug in a different box) One of the pieces in the Daughter No2 pile was a 1m piece of black wool & polyester mix with a grey stripe, making a windowpane design. It was to have been made into a wiggle skirt, but her nose got this odd wrinkle when I offered it up.
Just off-hand I wondered how it would look as a Bellatrix Blazer. I laid it out & attempted to place the pattern pieces, cheating ever so slightly by placing the sleeves on the cross grain – but it fit! Sooo… I cut it! Overnight I remembered I had some turquoise & lime spotty silk that was to have been a dress. I’d got so far with it before realising it was totally not me, so bagged it & stuffed it into the far reaches of the fabric cupboard for “recutting”. I though it would be fabulous as the lining in what would otherwise be a plain, formal looking garment. It was just enough for the front & back pieces & the pockets, but again those sleeves wouldn’t play ball. In the end I used some left-over black lining that had been used to replace the lining in Husband’s French Connection jacket.
So this is a real win for the stashbusting efforts of 2014. I am definitely counting the recutting of the dress in this one! Chalk up 2 from the stash – whoot, that means I can go shopping! 🙂
I cannot say too many times that this is a really easy pattern to make. Cut on Tuesday night, interfaced & marked on Wednesday morning, sewn in the late afternoon & finished on Thursday. Can you name another jacket you can finish that quickly? The only thing I did differently this time was to use some fusible canvas interfacing on the undercollar piece to hold this lightweight wool in place. With the cotton canvas print I left the stiffness out, but the fabric really needed the support this time. I do still want to make one for daughter No1, but first she needs to come home so I can show her the fabric I have in mind, & of course, she needs to try on a toile.
I know the photos do not do the stripe any justice, when we have weather that will allow outdoor photos with decent light, I promise to take a few more. For now though, the UK is battening down the hatches in preparation for yet another deluge & high winds. I guess we should be lucky that we at least aren’t suffering with the cold & snow like our friends in the USA.
In the interim, I have found another couple of pieces in the stash (!) for me, so I’m off to sketch out some ideas, because I can’t do anything with them in my head.
Well, it’s done! I am a little slow in posting this project here – trying to make some progress with other projects too! I had all the pieces for this “proper” Bellatrix Blazer, bar the lining, cut & marked on Sunday afternoon, & interfaced just before Sherlock started on Sunday evening. That’s what you saw in the previous post. So around 10:30am-ish on Monday morning, I got stuck in. A stray thought went through my head: “I wonder if I can finish this whole thing today, so Daughter No2 can wear it to school tomorrow…?” Nothing like a little challenge! 🙂
In the cutting out process I cut the facing fronts, which form the upper collar, 3mm wider along that front edge. I wanted to use a tailoring technique that helps to ensure the seam stays underneath. I did the same on the lower edges of the “peplum” pieces & the front edge. It really did help, as well as a lot of steam & flattening with my clapper! I also lengthened the shoulder seam by 2cm & the sleeve is 6cm longer. I cut the back lining piece with a 2cm pleat in the centre, this to enable movement, but otherwise kept everything else as standard. I even stayed with the bagged lining instruction!
This really is an easy pattern to make. The pockets are in-seam & the instructions are so plain & simple, a novice should be able to follow them with no problem! I found no problems, apart from the front sleevehead:armhole ratio. There is more armhole than sleeve! I must alter this on my traced pattern, but for now I managed to ease it all in & it doesn’t look like there was a problem.
We are on the lookout for a buckle or something for the front closure, we sort of decided we’d like an edge to edge closure, rather than a button. For now though, she’s happy to wear it as it is, & her friends have been suitably impressed with it! It got its first outing to school on Tuesday morning & in double French the teacher was most impressed with the fabric choice! I’ve shown the pattern & a suitable piece of fabric to Daughter No1 too, fingers crossed she likes the combination & I can make another!
In Jungle news, I spent many fruitless hours searching for my bodice block & toiles from last year, finally located them, only to realise I’d eaten too much over Christmas (and any other time in between) & needed to re-draft anyway! Grrr. So that’s what I did yesterday, & I’m intending to move along with adding the style lines & creating my puuuurfect jungle blouse.
How are your jungle plans? And have you taken advantage of the special offer at Raquel Gonzalez‘ Etsy store? You only have until this Monday to get 15%off a purchase over $50, and free shipping, so get cracking! Use the code: NewYearNewPurse when you check out.
Thanks for all the great replies to my previous post! It’s not the first time I’ve used a soft furnishing fabric for a jacket, but it is the first time I hadn’t intended for it to be seen by the general public! Now I did say I wouldn’t be making another Bellatrix until I’d sorted my Jungle January stuff. Yeah, I got distracted! Daughter No2 & I got digging in the stash & identified 3 pieces of fabric that could be used for the next one, & the winner was…
It’s a cotton canvas with a French print, writing & Eiffel towers all over. I cut it out yesterday & raided the stash lining box again. There was enough of a silver/grey/lilac that I’d used for a vintage jacket. Again, praise for the small pattern pieces! I have added a movement pleat in the back lining piece. This cotton canvas had a degree of movement in it & I don’t want to be fixing ripped armhole seams in the lining after a couple of wears. I managed to interface the fabric in the 30 minutes before Sherlock started last night, so today I’m ready to hit the ground running! YAY!
I was asked by a local store to make them some bunting (who else wants winter over now already?), so I again resorted to the stash. Funny how many pieces of left-over fabrics there are in my cupboard! Anyhow, I yanked out a pile of pretty stuff, a lot of which are Liberty lawn, so this is going to be high-class bunting!!
I also re-measured husband for his pattern cut shirt. Thank goodness I did! In the 3 years since I decided to make him a handmade shirt (or 2) he’s got a teeny bit bigger! 🙂 We both have to be honest, and he’s not been that bad. Anyhow, so that’s another thing to start, in addition to the Jungle blouse for me.
As well as rambling on about my progress this weekend, I have a special offer for the readers of this blog. There are so many talented people plying their crafts on Etsy, but here’s one person who makes the most amazing handbags & totes. Seriously, I have spent far too much time on her page, drooling over the colours & styles & being absolutely hopeless in my decision making. However, as it’s the New Year & we all need a boost – and a new handbag – Raquel Gonzalez is offering you guys 15% off any purchase over $50 (that’s US Dollars), including free postage. The discount is valid until Monday 20th January, so don’t dither too long over making a decision!
Use the code: NewYearNewPurse when you check out. As for me, I cannot decide between this floral tote (perfect for stashing fabric shopping in, yes??) & this block colour turquoise one. I wonder how much fabric one could stuff into one of these…. Then again, if I wasn’t worried about hiding fabric, I could totally have this purple crocodile number – drool!!
Yup, you read that correctly! This jacket has been made using a curtain – let me explain. I won the Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer in Kat‘s giveaway last year. I had a pretty good idea it would look pretty fabulous on the Daughters, and I especially liked the cropped version.
Thankfully I have a lightbox, because I needed it to trace the pattern! For this first go I was going completely by the book & Daughter No2’s measurements. With a new pattern I like to keep it simple and see where I need to alter, & I like to do the whole thing according to the instructions, so I can decided where I’d do things differently. On the whole, the pattern went together really well. One thing I don’t like is a bagged lining, so that’s definitely going to be changed when I make the “real thing”. I will also be lengthening the sleeve by about 8cm (Daughter No2 has orangutang arms).
I made the toile from a sturdy cotton jaquard curtain fabric to replicate what it may be like in a wool or maybe a thick twill. Considering there is no interfacing in it, I think it stands up quite well. Of course there is always a hitch… I put it all together & then did a fitting. Daughter No2 immediately went into raptures & wanted to wear it as is – “I like it, the colour is cool, the fabric is cool…” Really?? It’s a CURTAIN!! I have a serious problem – I am incapable of saying the word “No”. So I looked doubtful instead & said, there’s no interfacing – it needs to be lined…
But there was no dissuading her. So I retrofitted the lining – no easy feat, I can tell you! There is no understitching on the collar, no stay-tape & actually no fastening either, but she thinks its fab & went out in it tonight… I guess I’d better get cracking on the proper one now, but I’ll take my time, afterall, she has a new jacket already! 🙂
But before she gets another blazer, I need my Jungle attire!
I finally cracked. I am going to make the vintage patterns in my boxes pay for their keep, & new additions! Daughter No2 & I had a chat regarding all these pretty patterns, and how elegant the fashions are/were “back in then”. It seems a shame we have lost some of that, and I love making beautiful things. So it was decided to start making the patterns I have into clothes, making them in suitable fabrics & with the finishes they would have had if made by a seamstress when the patterns were new.
And so my shop was launched on the 28th June, with the first two items being these;
The fabric for the dress was sourced from Croft Mill, and boy do they ship quickly! I placed the order online on the Thursday night, by Saturday lunchtime it and the order made on Friday morning from Ditto Fabrics had arrived! This green pistachio cotton drill is fabulous! Ditto also have it in a dusky pink, I may just have to have some!
So, in addition to sewing Burdastyle patterns for the girls, and pattern cutting goodies for all of us, trying to find time to fulfill my Sewlutions commitment (still have to find it, to be honest!) & sell our house, I am now making gorgeous dresses, jackets, etc for selling on Etsy! I think I’m a happy bunny! 😀
I do have some projects to add here, but they can wait for another post….. Other good news is that no-one coming to view our house has been injured due to a fabric avalanche accident. Yet.
Oh – aaannnddd – the dream house that was snatched from under our noses is back on the market! The buyers pulled out at the last minute, so now all we need is to sell this one! Anyone for a 3 bedroom townhouse in a rural market town in Warwickshire????