Little Black Jacket

Way back last year in November, I was making a little black jacket – one I had hoped would be the warmer version of my little navy linen jacket that is so useful in the summer.  The pattern is 111 from the August issue of BurdaStyle magazine, 2021.  I’ll have to link to the Work in Progress post – it’s so long ago now!!  The details of what I needed to adjust for fitting are in that post, as well as a tutorial on how I do my in-seam pockets.   I took photos not long after the jacket was completed, but wasn’t entirely convinced with it.  Why?  Well, I wasn’t happy with the way the fabric behaved while sewing, for the most part.

lbj 5
Burda jacket 111 August 2021

Despite being washed, dried and ironed well before use, it shrunk again in the construction process, something I only discovered when I put facings to the shell, and tried to mark the positions of the snaps.  However, despite those initial misgivings, I have to say I rather like this little jacket!  It has been used on those days when I don’t need a coat, and is nice and roomy so a thick jumper can fit underneath!

lbj 6

lbj 3

Lets get into the details shall we?  The body is not fitted, the boxy shape allows for the addition of snuggly jumpers and rolled up scarves.  I also love the back pleated into a yoke, plenty of movement in this.  The sleeves too are not fitted.  They are constructed in three pieces and have a balloon shape – again with the jumpers, you don’t feel like the michelin man with your jumper bunched up in a too-tight sleeve!

lbj 8

lbj 1
Lining leftover from the rust corduroy Burda jacket made a couple of years ago

The texture on the fabric stops the black from being plain and boring, and the use of the patterned black and white viscose lining lifts the interior.  I went with plain black snaps, uncovered, to give a more sporty look to the jacket.  The only criticism I have about the jacket is the pockets.

lbj 9

They’re too high up and too far round in the side seam to be comfortably used.  You really cannot put anything in there that you wouldn’t want falling out either, they don’t scoop much and I definitely don’t put my phone in these.  And in the making up – the pocket bags are in the way of the sewing up of the hem!  The lower opening of the pocket lines up directly with the turned up hem edge.  I had to so some serious detouring around the pocket bags.  Next time I’ll make a patch pocket with a welt opening, similar to that of the Pepernoot coat from Waffle Patterns.  If I even bother with a pocket at all, the jacket is quite short, so hands in pockets means elbows out and bumping into things.

lbj 7

lbj 2

But – with all the pocket palava – I still like this jacket.  I have reached for it often and I really like the shape.  I still have that pile of old holey jeans waiting to be magically turned into something fabulous, and I’m getting quite keen ideas on using some of those to make another of these little jackets – unlined and with patch pockets!!

I’ll recap those items I’ve made and not “reviewed” during April, and try to keep up with the new stuff.  I think this year will be slow sewing for myself, and quicker sewing for the girls and the other half.  I seem to recall I promised him some self drafted shorts last summer…..

Author: Anne W

I love fabric, and sewing. And I could do nothing else but sew, all day, every day, if I could!

10 thoughts on “Little Black Jacket”

  1. Lovely jacket. I did not give this pattern a moment’s consideration when I received the August issue- perhaps because of the styling – but I really like your version. Now I’m thinking I might make it up – do you think it would still work if it was lengthened?

    1. Thanks! The yellow/green version in the magazine is 🥴, the jacquard version with piping much better! I think you could lengthen it, I think a much longer version, ie 20-30cm could look good. A bit like a swing coat, otherwise I’d probably only do an extra 5 or so. Toile it and see!

  2. I love this one. Looks so practical but really nice and presentable in a lot of situations. Also bonus for fitting big jumpers or cardis underneath.

    Those pockets sound pretty badly thought through. But the patch pockets on the pattern you linked to are fabulous. I can imagine the entire thing in repurposed denim.

    1. Those patch pockets from the coat are great, I made an adjustment to how they opened when I made my Pepernoot, and I think I’d do that again if I use it for another of these jackets. That pile of old jeans might not be enough for all the “repurpose” projects I’m coming up with!!

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