Daughter No 2 sent me a photo on Instagram late last year/early this year of a cute little top made in broiderie anglaise. One look at it told me I could use the Saraste Top from the Named Clothing book, Breaking the Pattern. Going from the measurements I chose to toile the size 2. Usually I make the first toile exactly as the pattern, but I aleady knew that she didn’t want the fullness and flare that the Top has. I used the pattern piece for the Shirt side front instead of the Top one, and removed flare from the side back to match the side front too.
The toile got the thumbs up, with a request to take in at the back waist a little more, it was too baggy, but not awful. So now I needed to make the pieces for the frills for the centre front and collar. I decided to make the pieces half as long again as the measurement of the original pieces. I could possibly have gone for a bit more, but not as much as three quarters, and definitely not double! The front frill is on the right front only, so only this piece needed the grown on facing to be removed and a seperate piece drawn up and cut.
The frills are not double, The finished size is 2cm, with 1cm seam allowance. I added 5mm to the outer edge which I used to create the rolled hem on the overlocker. This worked out so well! I had yet to use the rolled hem on this overlocker, so was very glad it was so easy to do and worked perfectly on the first try!
The pattern was on the sheets in the book, each sheet has a block listing the name of the pattern and the pieces it has on it. I think it would be easier if each sheet was numbered, and the corresponding numers were in the book – but it wasn’t too hard to find the sheets I needed. The pieces were easier to trace than Burda patterns, it really helps when they’re not packed onto the sheets! Seam allowances are included, so nothing more to do.
The insides are just overlocked, broiderie anglaise doesn’t French seam well and I didn’t want to bind seams. This way they are neat and tidy and will do the job just fine. I chose buttons from the stash that had been rescued from one of hubby’s old office shirts, so all this has cost is the price of the fabric, which was £5 a metre end of roll from Rosenberg & Son.
The instructions are clear, with illustrations if you need them. Obviously I needed to deviate a little for the front edge and collar stand, but it really wasn’t tricky. I think I might try making the shirt for Daughter No1, it’s the right shape for her and I already have the majority of the pieces traced! I’m really happy with how this has turned out, and the toile was made as a wearable toile, so that means two projects in one!
I took it down to London and personally delivered it, as you can see, it’s great on! She loves it, it’s just cute and pretty enough!
THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS 