I’ve finally made it!! I honestly cannot remember when I got the fabric for this coat, but it was a good few years back, for Mother’s Day. I’d seen it on the Fabrics Galore website and hinted to the girls that if they were looking for a present but hadn’t found anything yet…. Naturally the hint worked, and the fabric duly arrived. I had an idea of what I wanted, a coat with a simple shape without too much detail, to show off the woven pattern in the fabric. Eventually I saw Stephanie’s coat, and then other versions appeared, and I knew this was the one, Burda 6772, now out of print.
I’ve been meaning to get the coat made ever since buying the pattern, but for some reason spring and summer pass by in a flash and I never get round to it! Last year I decided it was my “year of coats” and added it to the list. I made 2 and a quarter of the coats on the list before everything changed and the world turned upside down. So here we are again, a new year and another Spring season. But this time it’s different, this time I have my Spring coat! Made from Mother’s Day fabric, in time to wear for Mother’s Day!
I decided on version A, but to keep it simple, eliminated the belt and belt loops. And because I want to have warm arms in Spring, used the full length sleeves of version B. At first I thought of a contrasting colour for the lining, but reminded myself that I was supposed to be keeping things simple, so kept it blue!
I made a toile of the bodice to check for fit across the bust and decided to make an adjustment in the bust area for depth, but not width. This increased the size of the bust dart which had an impact on the stripe matching later. I also shortened the upper bodice and sleeve depth by a centimetre, and made a small full bicep adjustment to the two piece sleeves. The shoulders were also narrowed by a centimetre, which doesn’t sound like much, but it moves the armhole into the right position. A second toile proved I’d got the kinks out, and once the skirt was pinned on to the front and folded up a lot, I had the overall issues sorted! The skirt was shortened by 8cm in the end! I definitely think I’ve got the right length.
The coat is interfaced with speed tailoring interfacing, a mixture of a fine sheer fo the facings, and a woven weft insertion for the back stay, sleeve heads and the t-piece in the front. The hems of the skirt piece and sleeves are interfaced with weft insertion interfacing cut on the bias. I also made a chest plastron from canvas and used some of the same in the collar stand for more rigidity. Shoulder pads complete the structure.
Lining is a pretty blue viscose lining from Fabworks, I ordered a metre which was enough for the main, and used grey and white striped lining from the stash for the sleeves. Buttons were from the stash too! I love it when I don’t need to go button shopping, because, lets face it – I have enough buttons. I managed to get the stripes to match up in most places, but I obviously wasn’t as careful as I would have liked! In some areas they are out, and there’s just nothing I can do about it now. I guess that means my head wasn’t quite as focused on the job as I would have liked. With the sleeve, I decided to match the pattern from the armhole down, rather that try to match in across the front and back. This is because of the bodice dart affecting the stripe placement.
I think I might be getting to the stage when I can say, I have enough coats too! Never thought I’d be saying that!! I just have two more on the list I really want to get made, one being a waterproof that I want this summer. I bought navy oilskin from Merchant and Mills in 2016 and it’s still on the roll in the corner of my sewing room! I also want to make a peacoat from fabric I’ve had for more than 10 years… I have the lining – silk Liberty, and the pattern is traced and ready to toile. One day!