Well, here we go with all the coats and jackets! I traced 5 jackets and coats over the weekend, so I’d have no more excuses to get started, because a toile doesn’t take long to make, given it needs no interfacing and hours of pressing. They just need suitable fabrics, something sturdy and with a bit of body and weight – you can’t successfully toile a coat using an old cotton duvet cover!
On the cutting table are the following patterns:
- Waffle Patterns’ Tosti Utility jacket and the Pepernoot Coat,
- Closet Case Patterns’ Sienna Maker Jacket, View A,
- StyleArc’s Grace Transitional Coat,
- Burda Caban Coat/Jacket 104 September 2015
- Burda Jacket 106 March 2018
I have the main fabric for all of these patterns, and lining for the two Burdas. The Sienna Jacket and Grace coat are unlined, but I think I might be binding seams on at least one of them, just to make it interesting on the inside. I also have lining for the Tosti, but am thinking of padding that out by quilting it to a thin layer of interlining, for warmth. As I’m still thinking about that, I haven’t gone ahead and bought the interlining yet, nor do I have any zips or snaps or anything else to make that pattern!
I decided to start with the Pepernoot Coat because I love the big hood, raised waistline and flared skirt, not to mention those fabulous pockets! Now, I’m the sort who, once a pattern and fabric is decided upon, will put my head down and go, go, go, until it’s finished. But. I wanted to slow down this year, take a more considered approach. Even if it does mean I’m still making coats in the Spring and possibly early summer…
So, I have the most gorgeous, soft, grey cashmere for the Pepernoot, bought 3-4 years ago from Truro Fabrics in Cornwall. Everytime we’re in Cornwall, a stop at Truro fabrics is mandatory. There’s always at lease one piece of fabric that has to come home with me! 😀 But, I didn’t really think much about the lining I’d chose. So I don’t have any, and am trying to find the right colour. I don’t want grey, black, silver or anything dull.
I figured a day in Birmingham going round the big stores would solve my problem, so I headed off yesterday to visit Daughter No2 and buy lining. Except that I came home with no lining! The colours were all wrong, and most of the fabric quality was not what I wanted either, I really didn’t want a polyester lining in my cashmere coat! (snobby much?? ;)) However, in Fancy Silk stores, we spotted a very pretty jade green Chinese brocade with white and silver cherry brances and blossoms that made me think, a lovely rich green would be nice! But not that stuff, it was silk (sigh) 90cm wide and £22/m. Too rich for my little wallet, I’m afraid.
So I turned to The Lining Company instead and have ordered 5 samples of their lovely viscose twill linings, 3 shades of green, one gold/mustard and one copper. Grey and mustard is lovely, but I couldn’t shake the green idea, so we’ll see what they all look like once the samples have arrived. I did manage to get the separating zipper yesterday, so I feel I could get started with the shell in the meantime. I didn’t buy short zips for the pockets, because I have a different idea in mind, but haven’t checked that it works yet! That’s today’s task.
Along with the pocket opening treatment, I need to finish altering the pattern after performing FBA surgery on the bodice. My current measurements for Bust and High Bust are 101 and 95cm respectively, so I opted to trace the size 44, based on a full bust of 100. Once toiled with some lovely old smelly curtains from the charity shop, I decided I really needed more depth in the front, and only a little more width. So my FBA was a little contrary to the usual method, I decided the length needed and the rest followed! In the end adding 2cm on length resulted in just over 1cm of width, which has made the front lie straight, the waist seam sit parallel to the floor, and there’s a bit more room across the chest. I’m not sure why, but the measurement across the chest, armhole to armhole, is quite narrow on this pattern, made a little better when I insert a shoulder pad. I’m not wide in that area, but do have an upright posture and tend to hold my shoulders back quite a bit, so this seemed a little restrictive. The FBA has allowed more rooom, but I think I’ll be altering the armhole a little.
Apart from that, I have no issues with the instructions, Yuki always has good illustrations if you’re a little stuck. I’m going to have to put a marker on the sewing machine for the 1.2cm seam allowance. I can move the needle over and keep the fabric on the 1cm line, but the tension can go funny if I do that, it’s not the machine’s favourite way to sew!
THE COMPULSIVE SEAMSTRESS 
Anne, you are sooo good to be doing all these coats, let alone all these details. And cashmere… I’m trying not to swoon. 🥰
I only have one winter coat for me in my wardrobe, and I made it about 10 years ago! I’ve been wanting a new one for a while, so now I have made myself make the time! And the cashmere is wonderful, relatively lightweight, and so soft….
Hm. You’ve given me something to consider as my winter coats are for Chicago winters, not Southern winters… agh!!!
All those coats and jackets! Busy lady. The Tosti is on my pattern pile (which doesn’t seem to be shrinking at all). The Peppernoot coat is another lovely pattern and will be wonderful in your cashmere. Well worth the time to iron out the snags before cutting into that 😉
My pattern pile never seems to shrink either! Anong with the stash, even though I know I’m using it!! I’m determined not to rush this one, I’ve liked the pattern for a long time, so I want it right!
Those pictures really illustrate the importance of learning how to deal with fit issues. Thanks for the pics. I’ve done a proper fba one time, for a dear friend, who wanted something made. The tailoress she went to pointed at her upper curves, and shrugged helplessly, while saying “I don’t know”. Then she came to me, and I did the adjustment. Was so grateful for all the bloggers who post advice… both good and bad (fails) as long as there are pics.
It’s always nice to see how people put their clothes together, and I do hope these work in progress posts are helpful to someone!! I must confess that my first sewing tutor had no idea of FBA, she could see that the front wasn’t hanging straight, but had me fold out a dart to straighten it and that was it! We didn’t add the width taken out in the front to anywhere else, so I ended up with jackets that were too narrow over the hip – and still didn’t fit properly over the bust, and I couldn’t figure out why until the internet came along and suddenly all that info was out there!
It’s amazing to see the difference a proper FBA makes not only to the fit, but also how it hangs. I love Waffle Patterns design but have been scared off by the cup issue. I’ve never done an FBA before, try to buy multi-cup patterns etc. Well done, I’m sure the finished coat will be awesome.