I’d marked this particular jacket in the August 2016 issue of Burdastyle when it first came out, but wasn’t sure I had the fabric, or who to make it for! It’s got a lovely 50s-60s look to it. In the photo in the magazine, it looks loose, big and comfy, but the sleeves look too long. That worried me, so I left it – for two years!
This year I decided it would look fabulous on Daughter No 1, sent her a photo of it and remarked that I’d shorten the sleeve as it looks a little hinky there. The reply was instant – yes please! I traced the 36, the smallest size and toiled in a piece of mystery content fabric I’d bought years and years ago. It was used as toile because every winter when I brought it out of the stash, I got wrinkled up noses and doubt. So it was obviously not going to be useful otherwise. I’d also tried to dye it blue-er, which didn’t work because it isn’t a natural fibre… this I found out when I tried dyeing!
Long story short, I toiled quickly using scraps of previous projects for the pocket linings and the flaps, red thread so I could see where I’d sewn if I needed to adjust or unpick. When she came home for a long weekend, she tried it on, and pronounced it perfect – almost. The sleeves were definitely too long, but we fixed that by turning up 8cm instead of the 4 for the hem, and then turned back another 4, essentially making a fold back cuff. The lower section of the sleeve is straight on the sides, so it’s easy to turn back more, and to make a cuff, no faffing with angles. She also decided she really liked the toile, and could she wear that please…?
I should have known. How often has this happened to me? I use a piece of fabric that’s otherwise ugly, or they haven’t noticed before, make a toile – and suddenly it’s the best thing since dairy free cheese! There was no attempt at matching the stripes, placing the pockets and tabs in the right place to line things up, just a toile, right!? I huffed a little – there’s no point in making out that this is easy too often, they might get the wrong idea! 😉 I found a suitable piece of lining in the stash, ended up unpicking the original pocket flaps with their red linings, as well as the pocket pieces themselves. Then I recut the flaps and pocket linings, resewed them in and finished off the jacket. One thing I did not do was interface. I was in no mood to go fiddling around with already trimmed and sewed bits to do that, it will just have to do!
I have to admit it looks good. I just wish we’d all had a better idea of that fabric before I’d started that particular job! 🙂 Never mind, at least the fabric has been put to a good use, and it wasn’t wasted. Things to note from the toile:
- Make the sleeves shorter, 8cm hem, 4cm turn back for cuff – optional as with the 8cm hem, the sleeve is now a good length.
- Recut the shawl collar/facing pattern pieces with 3mm added to the outer edge to allow for turn of cloth.
- Recut pocket outer flap pattern pieces and all outer (top) belt pieces with 3mm added to edge to allow for turn of cloth.
- Consider interfacing shoulder areas to reduce chance of stretch on the bias over the shoulder
The pattern lay in the magazine doesn’t show any interfacing apart from the facing pieces, and this doesn’t want to be an overly structured garment, but I felt it needed a bit more support in certain areas. So I interfaced a 2cm strip on the back shoulders, the front, front and back facings and the undercollar. I also added a 5cm wide bias cut strip to the hemline areas on the jacket, and a deeper bias strip to the sleeve, giving support to the area that would be turned up as the cuff, if she wanted to.
The final fabric for the jacket came from the deep stash, and I think I originally got it from a charity shop. It’s wool, grey on grey houndstooth. I’d pre-shrunk it with steam, so this will have to be drycleaned. For the lining, I raided the stash again. The initial idea was to have something dramatic, rust or copper on the inside, but I couldn’t find something in the right shade and fabric in time. So I dug out a piece of gold and blue shot lining I’d bought from The Lining Company to line a camel coat – as yet still unmade. It works pretty well, is warm and still interesting when the light catches it at different angles.
The jacket didn’t take long to make. I’d cut out the pieces and interfaced one evening, started sewing the next morning and finished the shell in time to cut the linings the next evening and sew them in. All I needed to do the next day was to hand sew the linings to the hem and attach the buttons, all of which came from the stash and are vintage. So it’s a quick jacket to make, the only fiddly (time consuming) thing is the welt pocket, if you haven’t done one before. The rest is really straightforward!
Both jackets have been really well recieved. We had a full house with both girls home for a weekend, and the jackets got well and truly drooled over. The colours work brilliantly with her wardrobe of neutrals (much like mine) and they look fabulous with her strawberrry blonde hair. I know they’ll get well worn this Autumn and Winter, a real winner!