dither get on with my sewing, I realised I had some photos taken in Cornwall of yet another top I actually did make. There’s something to be said about making patterns you’ve made before. You already know how to make them, how they wear, and how they’ll look. So just before we went to Cornwall I made two new tops, intending to take them both with me, for photo opportunities and to wear. We only went for 3 nights, guess how much I decided I had to make to take…
So the first of those is another version of the top 108 from February Burda 2018. I made one back in February, using some long held stashed fabric. This time I thought I’d put the elastic in the sleeve cuff, but just to be difficult I used one wide piece instead of the required narrow width. I also knew to be aware of that neckline. The first time I made it with the silk, I took care not to stretch it out when applying the gathered band. I made sure I didn’t handle it too much, used staystitch and interfaced asap, all to add stability.
So I did that again this time, and managed to stretch it out. Or did I. The cotton has more body than the silk could dream of, and therefore is thicker when gathered, stiffer when layered three deep. Once attached to the neckline of the top it was immediately obvious that it wasn’t sitting flat. I put it on Peggy, my dressmaker’s dummy and there it was, standing away from the body. Damn. I took two pinches out on each side at the shoulder seam, and did the same in the paper pattern. I’m not really wanting to take that apart and ajdust again.
So a word, you can do everything you can to stop stretching a neckline, but sometimes it’s just not going to work for you. It’s a combination of fabric and baggy drafting…. After all that, the top is dead easy to make, I used the overlocker so it was nice and quick. I was so busy wanting to make it quickly that I made a rookie mistake with the cutting out.
The fabric was purchased from Maven Patterns at the NEC, it’s hand block printed cotton, really nice to wear and I love the colour. But as it’s hand printed, it’s not exactly perfect, and the pattern isn’t centred. And I didn’t check that when I folded the fabric and pinned on the pattern pieces. Like I said, rookie mistake! Luckily, I don’t see the off centre print, I’m on the other side! 🙂 I wonder If I could call it a “design decision”, and get away with it??
I’m happy with my new top, it made it to Cornwall, and I even wore it! And I’ve worn it frequently. The fabric is actually lovely, nice and cool in the temperatures we’ve been enjoying in the UK this summer, and what a summer! It’s been summer since the beginning of May! Now you in other countries might wonder what the miracle is – well, our summer is usually 2 weeks, and they are not necessarily two consecutive weeks. It’s usually a few days here and there that add up to two weeks.
And that’s why I need to get cracking with my other sewing, there’s still a month of predicted SUMMER to come! And… I had an epiphany this morning. Yesterday was spent toiling two patterns that I really liked in the Burda magazines, but once made and on, they were just NO. Why? Pleats. Big pleats. I already know that with my tummy, I cannot wear pleated things (unless the fabric is soft and floaty and the pleats are small). So why in heavens name did I think I could get away with these?? In an effort to remain nice and cool today, I’m wearing a pair of long, floaty, viscose trousers – with pleats! But they work – why? Because the viscose drapes so well, the pleats are small, and – this is the important bit – they do not start at my waist! So I’m going to make that dark blue and white fabric that was-going-to-be-a-top-and-now-wants-to-be-bottoms in the culotte length version of these trousers! YES! And please let me remember that big pleats that start at the waist are NO GOOD. phew…