Right, I am finally ready to show you my Japanese Jacket. I had been hoping to get pictures of it on our little Cornish break, along with the cropped trousers from the last post, but it was way too hot for that!! In the end, I had to give in to the weather and just go for it. The jacket is the perfect layering piece for those typical English “summer” days, or slightly breezy days, and when Autumn finally arrives, I have no doubt that it will get a lot more wear. I visited Daughter No2 in her new flat in the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham last week, and on a little walk we found the perfect place for photographs. I love the feel of that area and I’m happy to see so much regeneration of the old workshops, warehouses and industrial spaces. The colours the Victorians and Georgians used are pretty fabulous too!
First of all, the pattern. In the Kana’s Standard II book, the sizing is in Japanese sizes up to 13. On checking the measurements for that size band I realised that if I graded up two sizes I’d be in the right ballpark, without having to redraft. Time saved! So off I went and graded the tops pattern, A. Basically there is one standard pattern with various little differences, length, sleeves, sleeve width and sleeve length. The jacket is A9, with a longer version that has pockets to make a coat, A10. There is a section of photographs of all the different versions of Top A, styling shots all featuring the author wearing the clothes from the book.
I did a quick “wearable toile” of A1, just a simple top with short sleeves, to check the fit. Width was more than enough, if not a little too much for a top. (Need to remember to take in the sides or reduce the width across the shoulder before using the pattern again) But it needed length across the bustline for a fuller bust than the books will ever cater for!
I added 3cm in length, creating a bust dart in the front side to allow for the fullness, this was then rotated to the waist and then removed in the side seam, so it’s dart-free. I also widened the sleeve by 2cm, I have fuller upper arms than the pattern allows for. In the summer this is not so bad, because of all the allotment work, digging, etc. My arms shrink in the summer, but when winter comes again, I don’t want clingy sleeves. Those were the only adjustments I decided were needed.
The pattern pieces fitted perfectly on the remaining rusty coloured linen. I thought briefly of binding the seams on the inside with bias, a Hong Kong finish, but as I really, really wanted the jacket for the Cornish trip and was up against the clock, left that and just overlocked everything instead. The pattern is quick to make, even without English instructions. The diagrams are clear, marked with numbers that indicate the order of work. Seam and hem allowances are marked in the cutting layout in the book, and it’s all metric. For some translation of the instructions, there is a handy page on this website which I used.
I am very happy with the finished garment, the colour is perfect, just as it was with the pants! For now I’m rolling the sleeves up a bit. I could probably make them more a 7/8 or 3/4 length for the summer, I’m always pushing up long sleeves, even in the winter! For the closure I used the last of the dark bronze snaps I got for Daughter No2’s orange coat last winter. Sewn on with buttonhole stitch, they’ll not be getting pulled off in a hurry.
I’m already making plans for more of these, possibly using some pinstripe wool suiting (and making a lining pattern) to make a winter version… The loose casual feel of the jacket is something I really like, although hubby would prefer me to wear something more fitted. Not in the summer!!
I’m off now to complete some more of the Burda challenge 2018 patterns on my list, July’s edition this year is a bit good, better than last month in it’s offerings!
19 thoughts on “Kana’s Standard II – A Rusty Jacket”
Love this jacket, Anne, and appreciate your showing a bit from the book – helps to un-intimidate anyone thinking about acquiring it… This really highlights your bag, too. Where did you find it? In the past I’ve had Clark’s bags that were similar, but never in that wonderful colour!
Thanks Del! The bag was a really find in a local charity shop! And it was only a fiver… It’s from a really small Italian leather goods maker, based in Rome, called Ibiz. http://www.ibizroma.it/en/ I can’t believe someone was getting rid of it, it’s pretty much timeless as far as I’m concerned! Regarding the book, it’s actually quite accessible, if you use the page I linked to, you can decipher the symbols that mean “fabric requirements” and all the sizes and finished measurements, etc. But the putting together is very simple, I have plans to make a pair of the trousers and some of the tops too.
A Charity Shop find?! Oh, dear–now my jaw’s really on the ground! 😲 You’re right about the timelessness of that style, and thank you for passing along the maker. (Might have to be on my second million to afford one, though. *wink*) Will follow that page’s link and think about styles again… THANK YOU, Lovely One! xx
Really like this jacket–well done.
Your colors in your photos are so gorgeous, and the jacket is divine. My husband also prefers more fitted garments but I am preferring a looser fit these days, which brought about an interesting conversation as to who I dress for – resounding answer being me!!!!
Thank you, it was the perfect backdrop! Now I’ll have to visit my daughter each time I need blog photos! 🙂 I definitely prefer looser fitting garments, especially in the summer. time and place!
Simple and elegant. Looks like it will be very versatile!
Thanks, yes, I certainly expect it to be! Might make another in some black herringbone linen I happen to have in the stash, as the project that was intended for has been made in something better…
I love this jacket, Anne. So far, I didn’t sew any Japanese pattern but you inspired me to do so.
PS I love your blog so I nominated you for The Mystery Blogger Award. It’s a bit of fun sharing facts about ourselves and celebrating other bloggers. Here’s the link if you’re interested:
But don’t worry if you don’t have time xx, Wis
Thank you Wis! I’ve got this twice now, so I better do something about it! 🙂 The Japanese stuff is less scary than you think! 🙂
The Japanese pattern books are a surprising source of wonderful garments. I’m just sad that the Japanese are so tiny – they no way echo my body shape!
Your jacket looks lovely, and perfect for cooler days.
I know what you mean, I think that if we’re careful with the proportions, we could get away with some of the stuff. I like the simplicity of the Japanese asthetic.
Hi Anne, I too love seeing the things you make, very lovely and similar to the kinds of things I like to make too, though I am a slower and less experienced sewer. To wit….. a bust dart in the front side to allow for the fullness, this was then rotated to the waist and then removed in the side seam, so it’s dart-free…..say what!!? Is this saying in effect though in more professional terms that to bring the front under the bust in, instead of having a bust dart one can take a wedge of the front out at the side seam, to achieve the same effect? Any chance of a post explaining how to do this properly, your way!? It would be much appreciated! Jen x
Hi Anne, I feel like I know you because I have been reading your emails for so long!! And today I jumped on your blog which is incredible! Wow, it sounds like you did a lot of work to get the fit right for the jacket and it looks amazing for it! I am working my way through discovering the perfect pants pattern… I have a base and now just altering it … two toiles already! And I see a few more the more I learn. Did you ever find a good pattern for your daughters in the line of a fitter trouser? I’d love to know… and I was curious about this pattern book – I have a number of books and recently made a skirt and forgot to add the seam allowance … so now coming up with a clever plan to remedy! Love your work, Suze
I think we’re still faffing with the perfect fitting trouser! The problem is they want it to look perfect when standing, but we all know over fitting to make it look good can make it not fit when it comes to acutally walking and sitting!
Yes, something I am learning about!! Thanks anyway, I will send you a message if I can work out how, with the pattern I am fiddling with, I think your girls might like it. I need to grade it out as the Vogue pattern – when I bought only gave three sizes and in my youth and inexperience I went with the one I thought instead of measuring my hips! And now after three kids the hips are wider still! Your passion for sewing is inspiring and it is teaching me to slow down and enjoy the process of fitting, after all it takes the majority of our sewing time for some makes! Thank you so much!