You just can’t keep a good pattern down. I’ve long been a fan of wide legged trousers, swooshy ones with good sized pockets. For years, my go-to for that particular style has been style 116 from the March 2004 issue of Burda magazine. I have made so many versions of that pattern I couldn’t even begin to count them. But I think I have a new favourite…
The stealer of the show is style number 102 & 3 from the May 2017 issue. I made two cropped (102) versions in linen in the summer and wore them constantly. I’d barely ironed them before they were back on sometimes ironing them in order to wear them that day! They are so comfy to wear, the pockets the perfect depth, and I love the back pocket too, that’s where my phone tends to live.
I was digging around in the stash for something or other in November and came across a left over piece of pinstripe wool. I’d originally bought 3m from Rosenberg & Son – probably around 10 years ago (!) and made a pair of trousers for a friend. The bit left over would have made a perfectly decent pair of trousers for one of my girls, but somehow they weren’t accepting it. After coming across it again, a possibility arose. I figured it would be perfect made as a pair of cropped wide legged trousers for the winter! There wasn’t enough to cut every piece, the waistband facings and the inner pocket bags were cut from the remains of the shell print cotton lawn from Mum’s top.
I love these trousers! And again, just like their linen cousins, I’m finding I reach for them as soon as they’re back in the cupboard. The wool is soft and not at all itchy – I didn’t line this pair. I shove them in the washing machine on a woolens cycle with some Ecover delicates liquid and they are none the worse for it. In fact, all my wool trousers get washed in the machine, I save dry-cleaning for coats.
Then I had a little splash of fabric buying from Fabworks and got my hands on 2m of their Classic Grey Italian Flannel, amongst other things. This wool is perfection, soft, flowy and the perfect colour!
I thought I’d make the full length trouser (103) in this fabric. I hadn’t shortened the cropped versions for my stunted leg length, but had to do so for the full length trousers! 6cm disappeared from the hem. I used a piece of black satin lining for the inner pocket bag to reduce bulk. The two metres was enough fabric, with an annoying little bit left over that I have no idea what to do with. My boxes are starting to fill up with these little pieces. As I’d lost 6cm from the length of this pair, I thought I might adjust the pattern properly so that the cropped pair would be more proportioned. I had wondered about this in the linen trousers I made in the summer, but left it at the time.
A week later I found another left over piece of wool! This navy worsted suiting had been given to me after the rest of it had been used for a 3-piece man’s suit. It was an odd bit, but would have made something for the girls I expect. But what it did make was another pair of cropped trousers! I lined this pair as the wool was rather thin. I’d got 3m of grey lining with my 3m of charcoal coating free from Fabworks in their birthday sale, so decided to use some of that. In the end, all I needed to buy was an invisible zip! I love free clothes!
The lining pieces were laid on the wool and overlocked together and treated as one piece, except for the panel sewn on the bottom. There the lining hangs seperately from the wool. Because they are lined, and the fabric behaves differently to the flannel and pinstripe, this pair are a little more fitted at the waist/hip. Which I rather like. As this pair was made after I’d shortened the pattern by 6cm they are shorter than the pinstripe version. I’m not sure which is length is better! I think I might prefer the original length, especially when worn with my fabby new suede boots!
I had been looking for a “perfect” pair of Chelsea boots for the winter, but these are so much better! I think it’s safe to say I have found a new favourite trouser pattern, and I’ll be making more! It runs up really quickly, you can easily make a pair in a day (which I did because I wanted to wear them the next day to Sunday Sewing Group!).
Now what I really need are some new tops!! Chris has made a fabulous version of the dramatic sleeve blouse from January 2018, and I’ve been drooling all over her pics! I have a plain navy viscose in the stash that would look fabulous, or even a navy with white feather print…. It will have to be a January project though, given that there’s only one day left of 2017!