Sewing double – twice!

Bellatrix the Fourth
Bellatrix the Fourth

April for the Monthly Stitch sewists is “Sewing Double” month.  We all have those tried & tested patterns that we have no problem running up quickly, loving the fit, style, etc.  My favourite pattern this year just has to be Papercut Pattern’s Bellatrix Blazer.

This is the fourth incarnation – and most certainly will not be the last!  The fabric is a gorgeous pistachio-y green medium weight linen that was part of my haul at the Sewing for Pleasure 2 weeks ago at the NEC.  It was going to make a vintage bolero to go with an early 50s sundress I’m making but….  I miscalculated the conversion from yards to metres.  I bought 1m but should have got just 20cm more and it would have worked.  Never mind, as you can see, Daughter No2 is pretty pleased I cannot do Imperial to save my life.  As usual, she’s come out the winner!

DSC07857-1Only one problem, 1m is barely enough for Bellatrix.  I had to cut the sleeves on the cross-grain to fit them in & had to forgo the matching facing pieces on the peplum thingie.  I had toyed with the idea of doing some contrast fabric for the welt strips and the front that forms the outer collar, but it would have restricted the number of outfits Daughter No2 could have paired it with.

DSC07854-1The lining…  I did say at the end of the last post with those MAD trousers that the lining in the jacket would look familiar  🙂  I used almost the rest of the handpainted cotton for 90% of the lining for the jacket, the exception being the sleeves.  I dug out some left-over bremsilk for the sleeves.

DSC07859-1I used Gill Arnold‘s fine sheer polyester fusible on the linen peplum pieces, the front & facing front & on the back above the shoulder blades & into the armholes.  For extra structure on the shawl collar I used a fusible canvas, also from Gill.  If you’re going to use a stiff interfacing like this, make sure you remove the seam allowance – you do not want that bulk in your seam!

Interfacing , front & undercollar and the back
Interfacing , front & undercollar and the back

As usual, the whole thing went together really quickly, and..  I have fixed the sleevehead vs armhole issue!  YAY!  The answer (for me anyway) was to raise the sleevehead 1cm, keep more of the height on the front than the back, and merge the extra into the existing shape at the front & back notches.  I forgot to take a photo to show what I mean, but next time I’ll put up a picture.  This adjustment has now finally worked, the last time I didn’t leave enough height on the front, so it was still a little short when fitted into the armhole.

DSC07852-1The sleeve fits really well now, and there is plenty of movement without the drag lines that appeared on the previous versions.  So, there it is, four Bellatrix blazers since the start of the year.  I have some pinstripe cashmere blend wool that I think will be enough to make another – that can wait a little though, I have a feeling another couple of linen or cotton canvas blazers are lurking in my near future! How many times have you used one pattern?

DSC07858-1Three blazers

Three blazers

Clockwise, left to right: le Bellatrix Blazer français, Curtains for Bellatrix and Bellatrix III

I have another “sewing Double” project to be getting on with this month, so bye for now, I have silk chiffon to cut up!  🙂

Author: Anne W

I love fabric, and sewing. And I could do nothing else but sew, all day, every day, if I could!

42 thoughts on “Sewing double – twice!”

  1. All of the versions look really sophisticated… I feel like I’ve come across other people making up this pattern but this is the first post to stop me in my tracks!

  2. Beautiful blazers! Great looking pattern and your construction looks fabulous! Love the linen you used! I’m going to have to remember to try this pattern myself next fall 🙂

  3. Love the colour and fabric, you have done a great job. It looks great on your daughter. Make me one?

    1. lol! Join the queue! 🙂 Seriously though, although indie patterns aren’t “cheap”, this one is definitely worth it.

  4. Seriously adorable! I can’t even take it! So cute! I’ve made three By Hand London Victoria blazers, but you’ve got me plotting about 8 versions of the Bellatrix!

      1. Oh, definitely sewing frustration there! 🙂 I haven’t made the Bellatrix for me either – not the right details for my shape, but I love it on the munchkin! I’m keen to see your 8 Bellatrixes, Bellatrixii??

  5. Oh how I love linen. And your gorgeous jacket properly showcases all those gorgeous fabrics. I’m in awe of your skillz, Anne! So neat. So perfect x

  6. Great makes! And great model! Love your choice of fabric for the lining – goes so well with the fashion fabric, what bit of fun lurking inside!

  7. In LOVE with all of your Bellatrix blazers. Can I become your honorary daughter? 🙂 haha! Seriously though, looking at your beautiful blazers really makes me want to try this pattern out. It’s an expensive pattern, so it’s helpful to see all of your positive reviews.

      1. Nope, there isn’t the room in the shoulder. If you did want them, you’d have to open up the armhole front & back by the depth of the shoulder pad & enlarge the sleeve head too.

    1. It is a bit pricey, as are a lot of the indies, but I can honestly say that if you like the style of this from the other makes out there, & the sketches you’ll not regret it. I think the stylelines have a long life & the more different the fabrics & details you use, the longer you’ll be using this pattern!

    2. The pattern is well worth it if it suits you & you make more than one version! I still haven’t make the longer peplum version, this one is just too cool!

  8. Oh wow, Anne… you are REALLY selling me on this pattern! Every version you make is more and more gorgeous – this is my favourite so far! Love the colour; the solid really shows off those cool style lines 🙂

  9. What a lovely jacket (what a pretty girl, too)! I’m sold on the Bellatrix blazer now. Thank you for sharing the armhole tip, my shoulders being tiny, I will certainly use it if I make it. How much fabric would you say the blazer really needs? They say 1.8 meters on the pattern shop, but you seem to have used less than that in your last two versions!

    1. Thanks Catlotta! I make the XS size, so can get away with less, also, I use some rather creative pattern layouts! I recon you could get away with 1.2m – to be safe of a fabric 150cm wide, but maybe just to be sure get 1.5m. But it does depend on which size you’re making. Good luck! 🙂

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