Riding high on my success with the Jungle January blouse, I thought I’d dive straight in & make another while all was going well. I used my Wardrobe Architect Pinterest board to decide what elements to combine, without going overboard.
One thing has become apparent over the last couple of weeks doing the Wardorbe Architect thingie. I seem to be chanelling a bit of the 70s. Not full-on retro stuff, but hints in the sleeves, bootcut or flared trousers & little jackets. So while everyone else is looking to the glamour of the 50s & 40s – I have to pick the funky, glamourous 70s! Now I am a 70s girl, but what I remember of the decade is definitely not stylish. My mum dressed us kids in tartan trousers, turtlenecks, corduroys that got static & made the dried grass stick to them & pinafores in the winter. I vaguely remember long dresses & floral prints for the summer, & a denim shirtdress?? No way I am going back to that, I prefer the idea of glamourous 70s!
So with that in mind, the fabric for the new project is from my stash, a piece I bought in Cornwall last summer on holiday – because the first thing you do when looking for a place to stay is to Google “fabric shops in…”. Right? Along with various other pieces, I bought 3m of this polyester satin, large black dots on a cream ground – & I think it’s rather retro. Normally I don’t buy polyester, but I could not resist these spots. The Remnant House in Bude did well from that little excursion on a rainy day.
Going back to the bodice block, I traced off the front, added a 1.5cm buttonstand & 4cm wide grown on facing. The hem was shaped like the Jungle blouse & the shoulder dart moved to the underarm. The waist darts were eliminated & the side seam taken in an extra 1cm. I think with this one though that I will sew a narrow dart, the fabric is so lovely & floppy but there needs to be a little more shape.
On the back I measured a 12cm yoke & separated it from the rest of the pattern. I drew a line up to the yoke seam line from the centre of the back dart positions, & cut up it to add 3cm of fullness to enable me to have gathers above the shoulder blades. This has worked out well. One of the toiles I’d made for the jungle blouse had had a yoke, but I’d made it too high (only 8cm from the neck) & it didn’t sit right. Again, the darts were eliminated, the side seam taken in an extra 1cm & the hem shaped. I’m really happy with the back, so no adjustments needed there for the next time!
The sleeves are my favourite bit! 🙂 I traced the pattern piece from the Jungle blouse, adding in the lines where I’d slashed & spread. I cut up the centre of these lines on the front & back and added more!! The back ended up with 10cm of fullness, the front with 6. Then I widened the sleeve seems by 2cm on the back & 1 on the front, added 4cm to the length on the back and only 1 on the front. This means that the back is fuller & longer & should have a fabulous hang when done. And it does! It is a bit of a bishop sleeve – to do it properly you should go for full length with a deep cuff. Mmmm, I do love a bishop sleeve! 🙂 If you want to make your own, this is from Patternmaking for Fashion Design, by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.
The collar is just a simple convertible collar, permanently disabled! I never wear tops buttoned up to the neck so I placed the first button to have a decent “v” and an open collar. I’ll make the stand & fall shallower next time, although it doesn’t bug me like this. One thing that does bug me though is the front. The rows of spots don’t line up across the front! AARRGGHH! The fabric must have slipped while I was on hands & knees pinning & measuring, & of course, I didn’t notice until it was too late! I must remember not to look in the mirror – at least when its on I can’t see it! Oh dear…
Onto the stashbusting! January was pretty good really. I used some white linen that I’ve had for aaages to make a vintage jacket. Bellatrix has scored really well with 4 stash fabrics used! Woot! I’ve decided to stick with my use 2, buy 1 from last year. That means I get to buy 2 new pieces – if I need them.. Ha! Who am I kidding, of course I NEED it! Husband & I went up to Solihull on the weekend, he looking for lighting for the living room, me tagging along in the hopes of finding some goodies in the John Lewis sale. As luck would have it, we both struck gold! I win though, because I managed to persuade him to buy my fabric! I left clutching 4m of silk, two 2m lengths, & grinning like a Cheshire cat! I’m-a-gonna make some fabulous blouses with these…